20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Explorer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I think what you mean is that the starter motor is operating normally and rotating the engine but the engine will not fire up. There are numerous problems which could be causing an engine no start condition and it is impossible to say what the cause is in your case without physically checking the car and running a diagnosis to see what fault codes it is throwing.

first you need a good amount of tool and very good quality jack and stands remember you will be under the truck for awhile and want to come out from under it the same as you started next if you do not have a good amount of knowledge about mechanics STOP NOW! YOU'LL BE SORRY LATER! F YOUDO THEN LETS GO! (a) jack the vehicle and place on jack stands at the front frame jack pads (b)place a drain pan under the vehicle and drain the engine oil while this is happening drain the antifreeze also and when finished disconnect the hose from the engine put a rag and a zip lock bag over the hose to catch any leftover antifreeze and tie it with string or a rubber band go to the top hose and disconnect that also this is because you will be raising the motor up off the frame and the hoses will bend and inhibit this action and a possible hose rupture could occur spilling antifreeze everywhere (c) disconnect the battery cables also (d) the air cleaner snorkel also (e) take a piece of wood and place it on the hydraulic jack and make sure it's big enough to fit on the oil pan and also not get caught on anything while raising the motor stop here go to your drain pans and empty the fluids into containers if you have not done this already and clear them out of the way.(f) go to the engine motor mounts and unbolt the mounts from the frame (g) place the jack and he wood under the oil pan and start to lift the motor watching out for any components that may make contact or plugs that may need to be disconnected the windshield wiper cowl and motor may have to be removed at this time the motor must be raised a good amount so the oil-pan can clear the pick-up tube and screen in the pan attached to the oil pump when you get he motor up off the frame place a few 2x4's - 3x4 blocks of wood in between the engine and frame to hold it up and aid in keeping the engine raised safely for you to start putting your arms in under the engine if you have another or stand position it under the transmission bell housing and under the pan once you are sure the engine is safely raised and supported remove the jack from under the oil-pan (h)put a plastic garbage bag in between a large piece of drop cloth to catch any remaining oil that is still in the pan remove the oil-pan bolts and drop the pain/MAKE SURE YOUR DOING THIS INSIDE AND ARE SHIELDED FROM WIND YOU ARE EXPOSING THE UNDER PART OF THE MOTOR HERE AND WE DON'T WANT DIRT BLOWING IN THERE IT WILL STICK TO THE OILED PARTS AND RUIN YOUR MOTOR SOON!/ (now that the pan is out unbolt the oil-pump and pick-up screen and remove them take the screen and tube and clean thoroughly with a cleaner liquid wrench/ w d 40 work good also engine degreaser followed by liquid wrench would be perfect here if the screen is totally covered in solid caked up oil it must soak in cleaner overnight be replaced with a new one here's some photo's this is the pump this I the pick-up tube and screen this is the pump shaft drive this is the pan gasket with the front and rear block seals on it this is the flat pan type I think your motor has this one you can check by looking under the truck before you start to determine which one you have and buy the new one (I) prime the new oil pump with clean engine oil in a clean bucket or a small plastic pan by submerging the pump an rotating the pump drive that the shaft drive fits into we want to get oil in the pump to get it wet and have some oil in it for engine start up (j) put the assembly back together making sure they are tight the use of a book from CHILTONS WILL ALSO HELP YOU HERE BUT TIGHTEN YOUR BOLTS TILL SNUG THEN A 1/8-1/4 TURN OR A 1/2 FOR LARGE BOLTS WILL ENSURE THAT THEY WILL NOT LOOSEN AFTER REASSEMBLY REVERSE THE REMOVAL PROCEDURE FOR THE PAN BOLTS TIGHTEN IN A CRISS-CROSS PATTERN A LITTE AT TIME TILL SNUG ON THE FLAT GASKET THERE MAYBE METAL INSERTS IN THE GASKET AND TIGHTENING THE BOLTS UNTIL THEY ARE SNUG AND THEN 1/8 OF A TURN IS ENOUGH THEY WILL SNAP IF YOU RANK THEM AND THEN YOU WILL BE ON YOUR WAY TO HELL WITHOUT A HAND BASKET FOLLOW THE REVERSE REMOVAL OF ALL PARTS AND COMPONENTS AND GO THROUGH THE ENGINE LOWERING SLOWLY TO MATCH THE MOTOR MOUNTS WITH THE FRAME AND TIGHTEN RECONNECT ALL PLUGS / HOSES /ND ANYTHING YOU DID DURING THE REMOVAL PROCEDURE ONCE ALL PARTS ARE RECONECTED PUT YOU FLUIDS IN RECONNECT THE BATERY CABLES AND START THE TRUCK AT FIRST THE TRUCK WILL RUN ROUGH BECAUSE THE COMPUTER NEEDS TO RELEARN THE SENSOR VALUES AND RUNNING PARAMETERS JUST LET IT RUN ON IT'S OWN IT WILL STRAIGHTEN OUT CHECK FOR ANY FLUID LEAKS LET TH RUCK RUN 10 MINUTES ALSO MAKE SURE THAT WHEN YOU PUT ALL FLUIDS ---MOTOR OIL---TRANSMSSIO FLUID------ANTIFREEZE--------POWER STEERING FLUID THAT YOU FILL THEM TO THE -----FULL COLD MARK ON THE DIPSTICKS OR THE BOTTLE OR THE RESEVOIR THIS I BECAUSE THESE FLUIDS EXPAND WHEN THE GET HOT AND WILL BLOW OUT SEALS AND NEW GASKET APPLICATIONS RUINING YOUR WORK AND AGAIN NO HAND BASKET ONCE WE REHECK THE ALL THE FLUIDS GO FOR RIDE SOTHE COMPUTER CAN CONTINUE TO RELEARN AN YOU CAN NOW IF EVERYTHING AS DONE RIGHT CELEBRATE THAT HOORAY! YOU DID AND HOORAY! YOU LEARNED SOMETHING AND HOORAY! YOU SAVED SOME $$$ AND YOU CAN SPEND IT ON LUNCH( FAT GUY HERE ) OR SOMETHING ELSE LIKE FLOWERS FOR YOUR OTHER HALF WHO WILL NOW BE BLESSED WITH HAVING A BATHROOM THAT LOOKS LIKE A RODEO TOOK PLACE IN WITH CATTLE COVERED IN GREASE AND DIRT AFTER YOU TAKE 5 SHOWERS TO GET MOST OF IT OFF YOU HA! HAAAAAAAAAAA! AND YOUR OTHER WILL BE CHASING YOU WITH A PAN TRYING TO KNOCK YOU OUT THE FLOWERS WILL HELP IF THEY LIKE THEM OTHERWISE AT YOUR FUNERAL FOR WRECKING THE BATHROOM----------- GREASE FOR PEACE THERE COWBOYS--------COWGIRLS------------I HAVE TAKEN THE TIME TO WRITE THIS THREAD TO HELP YOU AND EVERYBODY ELSE WHO NEEDS HELP AND WANTS TO LEARN TO DO IT THEMSELVES AND TO SAVE MONEY BE SAFE ALL AND GOOD LUCK------ STEPHEN

On your vehicle, if you are using the unlock button and driver door is unlocking, but pass door is staying locked, you actually have a bad actuator int he door.

Firing Order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8JF: Integrated Ignition Coil On Plug Coil 1 Through 10 Failure2000 PCED On Board Diagnostics II SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests Procedure revision date: 01/31/2001 JF: Integrated Ignition Coil On Plug Coil 1 Through 10 Failure ? JF: Introduction JF1 DETERMINE WHICH COIL IS NOT FIRING

Note: Electronic ignition engine timing is entirely controlled by the PCM. Electronic ignition timing is NOT adjustable. Do not attempt to check base timing. You will receive false readings.
• Determine which coil is not firing using information from Pinpoint Test JB or DTC and the table at the beginning of this pinpoint test.
• Record cylinder, coil and PCM pin number from the table.

Have the cylinder number, coil driver and PCM pin number been recorded? Yes No GO to JF2. To obtain required information, GO to JF1 and REPEAT. JF2 DTC P0351, P0356, P0357: CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR FAILUREAre any of the above listed DTCs present? Yes No GO to JF3. GO to JF4. JF3 CHECK RESISTANCE OF CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

• Measure resistance of crankshaft position sensor.

Is resistance between 290 and 390 ohms (for LS8 between 900 and 1300 ohms)? Yes No GO to JF4. REPLACE crankshaft position sensor. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF4 CHECK FUNCTIONALITY OF SUSPECT COIL DRIVER (CD) CIRCUIT

• Disconnect suspect coil (determined from the table).
• Connect incandescent test lamp between IGN START/RUN and suspect CD circuit (determined from the table) at the coil on plug harness connector.
• Disable fuel pump by disconnecting inertia fuel shutoff switch.
• Observe incandescent test lamp while cranking engine.

Is the test lamp blinking consistently? Yes No KEY OFF. GO to JF5. KEY OFF. GO to JF6. JF5 CHECK FUNCTIONALITY OF SUSPECT COIL

• Remove suspect coil (determined from the table) from spark plug.
• Connect an air gap spark tester 303-D037 (D81P-6666-A) or equivalent to a suspect coil.
• Reconnect suspect coil harness connector.
• Observe spark tester while cranking engine.

Is the spark present? Yes No KEY OFF. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. GO to Z1. KEY OFF. REPLACE coil. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF6 CHECK IGN START/RUN VOLTAGE TO SUSPECT COIL

• Key on, engine off.
• Measure voltage between IGN START/RUN circuit at the coil on plug harness connector and ground.

Is voltage greater than 10.0 volts? Yes No KEY OFF. GO toJF7. KEY OFF. LS6 and LS8: GO to B5. All others: IGN START/RUN circuit fault. CHECK condition of related fuses/fuse links. If OK, REPAIR open circuit. If fuse/fuse link is damaged, CHECK IGN START/RUN circuit for short to ground. REPAIR as necessary. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF7 CHECK SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT FOR OPEN IN HARNESS

• Disconnect PCM.
• Measure resistance of suspect CD circuit between PCM harness connector pin (determined from the table) and coil on plug harness connector.

Is resistance less than 5 ohms? Yes No GO to JF8. REPAIR open circuit. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF8 CHECK SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO VPWR IN HARNESS

• Key on, engine off.
• Measure voltage between suspect CD circuit at the PCM harness connector (determined from the table) and ground.

Is voltage less than 1.0 volt? Yes No KEY OFF. GO to JF9. KEY OFF. REPAIR short circuit. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF9 CHECK SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND IN HARNESS

• Disconnect scan tool.
• Measure resistance between suspect CD circuit at the PCM harness connector (determined from the table) and ground.

Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? Yes No GO toJF10. REPAIR short circuit. If symptom or DTC is still present, GO to JF11 to check for damaged coil, otherwise COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF10 PERFORM INTERMITTENT TEST ON SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT HARNESS

• Connect digital multimeter between suspect CD circuit at the PCM harness connector (determined from the table) and CD circuit at coil on plug harness connector.
• Wiggle and bend CD harness from PCM harness connector to coil on plug harness connector.

Did resistance fluctuate during wiggle test? Yes No REPAIR intermittent fault in harness. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). REPLACE PCM. (REFER to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM)). If symptom or DTC is still present, GO to JF11 to check for damaged coil, otherwise COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles). JF11 CHECK SUSPECT COIL FOR DAMAGE

• Remove suspect coil (determined from the table) from spark plug.
• Connect an air gap spark tester 303-D037 (D81P-6666-A) or equivalent to a suspect coil.
• Disable fuel pump by disconnecting inertia fuel shutoff switch.
• Observe spark tester while cranking engine.

Is the spark present? Yes No KEY OFF. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. GO to Z1. KEY OFF. REPLACE coil. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).

It is on the starter. You have to replace both of them.

well Casey I hope this helps you out this is what it looks like if you have one and it should be located behind your glove box ,but it could be under your side of the dashboard I wish you could tell me more of what's wrong so maybe there is another solution I was able to find these photo's for a crown Victoria and a ford excursion the module photo's are from a the crown Victoria the connector is from the excursion but I think they are the same if you go to the dealer and check for the part# and he maybe able to give you a diagram or photo the dealer is the only place you can get one new but make sure you check the part# I gave you first when your looking for it you should see a 14pin connector and the word LECTRON on it this was the manufacturer for ford and also look for the part# on the sticker if it's still there, now their is a possibility that this is contained in the lighting control module and the whole unit has to be replaced I could not find a listing for an explorer with this at rock auto which is a great place that I'm turning you on to for parts but I also checked a few dealer sites and I couldn't find it so if this is it you can try a junk yard but if there was any electrical work done or wires cut for any reason these must be reconnected first before you spend any $$ for a part that still won't work because there's a wire cut for that circuit so if you can post back to me exactly what's wrong and the exact model of your truck we can take it from there till we can fix it so remember this also I'm not there at the truck so you must be very specific to what is happening with the wipers EX. fuses blowing, wipers working or not ,won't shut off, only one speed once their on you can't shut them off ,is their power to the motor,you get the idea GOOD LUCK AND I HOPE THIS HAS HELPED YOU OR THAT I CAN HELP YOU WITH MORE INFO STEPHEN

If your windshield washer won't squirt here are some ideas and I hope they work. Where the fluid shoots out on the windshield are the little holes clean sometimes they fill with gum and dirt. Are all the hoses from the unit itself open and free of dirt. If its freezing could be froze up. If all that is ok make sure the pump is running when you push the button. If not check the fuses. If they are ok could be the pump itself.

This link may help Fuse Panel Diagram Ford Explorer 2000 Hope this helps. Bob

Maybe the safety lock switch is bad , check for battery voltage going into switch an coming out of the switch !

Have you checked the fuses and the bulbs to make sure they are ok and check that you have a live feed when switched to main beam .

Is it getting enough fuel pressure. Around 50 pounds. Could be the pump or the fuel regulator.

Pull your Serpentine belt, remove the Cam Belt Cover, (it may be advantageous to remove front wheel in the Cam Belt side) Remove the timing belt and time the engine to specifications, make sure you are on #1TDC, remove the tensioner and replace. if there is and Idler pulley replace that as well. You can use Spray Carb Cleaner to clean the pulleys before replacing the belt. Note, you may have to also remove the Harmonic Balancer and pulleys from the crankshaft.

Normally, a relay switches the lamps between high and low beams; the dimmer switch controls the relay. Check relay/fuse center covers for a legend describing the functions of the relays present. Empty positions are normal and provided for accessories. Many of the relays will bear the same part number so if you can locate the layout legend and find the headlight relay, exchange it with another of the same type to check the suspected one for function.

P0401 is for EGR low flow P0401 EGR Insufficient flow test what this !

About 60 to 85 psi.

The p0174 is a lean code for bank 2, possible vacuum leak on the intake area cause of problem, check all vacuum lines and hoses, pcv valve and hose assembly, also could be upper intake gaskets worn I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/paul_09aa0de59eaf3c86

sometimes,and some cars have a blower motor resistor that goes bad.Check and see if you have one,replace

STARTER PROBLEMS

It can be faulty starter or there is loose connection from battery to starter. The starter assembly gets power from battery. Check voltages at starter wires and see if you are getting 12 volts or not. If not then its no power issue due to low battery volt or no connection between battery to starter.

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To solve these problem, I suggest you to refer these direct help links:-----

Click the link below: ------

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How to test starter solenoid?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-starter-solenoid.html

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How to test cars starter?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-cars-starter.html

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How to replace starter in car?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-starter-in-car.html

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These will help.

Thanks.

Could be the fan motor or it could be the dashboard switch. It could also be the fan impeller mounted on the motor. Search youtube for other people working on this problem and how to fix it.

Thermostat is stuck..... try that first. Then look at radiator - may need replacement if calcium buildup is blocking vents and fins. Radiator shop is best bet - they do this all the time. Had the same problem on an old Chevy - vents and fins were 90% blocked. Mechanics kept replacing the GD thermostat...... Blockage in your radiator is usually from adding hard tap water to radiator or fill/overflow container.