20 Most Recent 2000 Ford Explorer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi get the oil and filter changed in the transmition by a reputable mechanic it might need a flush out if this dosent work your transmition needs rebuding. Good luck

It should be located behind the glove box.

The fuse panel is on the driver's door side of the dash. You can see it when you open the door.

get new wires,check that a plug wasnt damaged,start it at night and open the hood,look for sparks

The sensor on the very back of the transmission. Close to the drive shaft.

need oxygen sensor and sending units for oil pressure and temp,first check fuses and see if they are disconnected

check the connection on your battery terminal ends. if they are loose or corroded that could explain the intermittent no spark. also could be a short somewhere but id check the terminals first. I had that problem once and the car did all sorts of weird things. airbag light, check engine light, randomly wouldnt start until i would mess with the battery.

Sometimes the fuse box, located under the dash on the drivers side, has a diagram on the fuse box cover. Hope this helps.

How many times do you hear it. Just once or continuously If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d

Look into the lock opening on the door frame for a part you can reach with a flat-blade screwdriver. These can normally be opened if prying on the lock mechanism. If you want to risk another door, watch the mechanism move when locking it manually. You should then be able to reset both.

Sounds like a typical failure for an idle air control. I'd recommend sticking with OEM, my experience with Chinese IACs is mixed at best.

No, those are fuel injected.

-Sounds like it Need re done ground. Good Luck. Mai

large vacuum leak at rear hose from pcv valve

1342 is a module fault code. But before you replace the module, check the ground wire to it. A bigger wire, not in the plug. Is for the pump motor.

Check with your autoparts store, it could be in the instructions. There is a possibility, the head bolts also need to be replaced. Some heads use a one time "stretch" bolt to maintain the proper tension. Double check your engine and its repair manual.

From my wiring diagram power for the radio is fuse # 29 a 25amp fuse! The fuse for cig lighter also powers the DLC Pin # 16 . The DLC is the connector under the dash left of the steering wheel . This is where you would hook up a scan tool ! Are you saying by part dash lights ,that some of the dash lights are out ? Could just be some burnt out bulbs ! Was fuse # blown ? Did you cig light work before ? Could have a shorted out cig. lighter or the outlet ! To fix dash bulbs the instrument cluster would need to be pulled ! How to Replace Dashboard Lights In Depth

Watch this... Bosch Marathon Premium Wiper Blades vs OEM

This clicking noise that you said does it do it when you turn? If so your problem lies in your CVJoints. Constant velocity joints are attached to the steering mechanism. Try an experiment first. Get the vehicle at about 15 mph and do a small donut (controlled) parking lot would be easier for this and safer. Then turn the opposite direction. If the clicking noise is on both directions then you might as well replace both inner and outer CV joints for the right and left side. It might be your rack and pinion as well. The joints fail first before your rack and pinion so check that first. You may want to see the fluid level on the rack and pinion to see if that was the problem. Check the cheapest thing first. Let me know Gabe.

The trans is toast and needs rebuilt. It could be an electronic valve assembly problem like in my sisters that I fixed but I also had her entire trans rebuilt because other things were old and junk in there and would fail down the road. Take it to a qualified REPUTABLE trans shop and have them pull and rebuild. Read reviews on google first to find out if they are good or evil :)