Top 10 1966 Ford Mustang Questions & Answers

Most tail light problems are a result of a bad ground......somewhere.

Hi, sounds like you have checked everything properly and you have a bad tank sender, current when checked with test lamp should pulsate.I suggest replace fuel tank sender.

try to run the water pump without hoses, and add water in the 'in' side, if is powers out the other side, then it's fine. how is your water/coolant mix?

Guide to starting a dead horse!
1- Spray a little starter fluid down the carbuerator. If it tries to fire, your timing and ignition is probably OK. This could indicate a carb or fuel pump problem.
2- If it doesn't fire, check out the points, condenser, coil, distributor cap and rotor. Look for condensation inside the cap. Check that the high tension wire from the coil to distributor is in good shape and not touching the engine or any brackets,etc.
3- Verify that your timing is correct. You may have a timing train problem (Worn or broken).
4- The distributor may have come loose and changed positions. Check for proper timing.
5- It may be a compression problem. If it has set long enough for the oil that coats the cylinder walls to drain down, you won't have enough compression to allow firing. Check your compression and if this seems to be the case, remove the spark plugs and squirt a little Marvel Mystery oil, or similar light weight oil into each cylinder. When it starts, it will smoke for a few minutes, but that will go away.
Hope this helps and if not, get back to me.
Have a super day!
Ron

I had the same problem w/ my 65 Falcon. I adjusted the control valve a few different ways and it made a little difference. I noticed the boot for the ball stud was off-centered and was pushing the ball stud(along w/ the spool valve) to one side. Try lifting the front of the vehicle, loosen the boot strap, center the boot strap and road test the vehicle. I know it sounds like a long shot but it made a difference. My steering still isn't perfect, but it's alot better. Maybe it will work w/ your concern, it might help me figure out what's wrong w/ mine. Let me know if it helps.
KK.

your in luck because all repair kits come with instructions
but dont get caried away taking out choke and throttle plates it isnt nessesary just take off the top and bottom and choke assemly clean up parts.blow out passages with air hose were safty glasses in case a check ball you missed or some dirt comes flying out

The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...



Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

Firing Order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Distributor Rotates Counter-Clockwise

I assume you have hydraulic lifters. If not, please get back to me. We used to do this with the covers off and the engine running, but that was messy. Here is procedure from autozone.com:

This procedure for the 289 and early 302 V8 engines is designed for engines in which the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder on the mounting stud. These engines were originally equipped with this kind of stud. However, due to production differences, it is possible some 289 or early 302 engines may be encountered that are equipped with positive stop rocker arm mounting studs. Before following this procedure, verify that the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder. On studs without a positive stop, the shank portion of the stud that is exposed just above the cylinder head is the same diameter as the threaded portion, at the top of the stud is of greater diameter than the threaded portion, this identifies it as a positive stop rocker arm stud and the procedure for the 351 engine should be followed.

1. Crank the engine until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke and the timing pointer is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft damper.
2. Scribe a mark on the damper at this point.
3. Scribe three more marks on the damper, dividing the damper into quarters (see illustration).
4. With mark A aligned with the timing pointer, adjust the valves on No. 1 cylinder by backing off the adjusting nut until the pushrod has free-play in it. Then, tighten the nut until there is no free-play in the rocker arm. This can be determined by turning the pushrod while tightening the nut; when the pushrod can no longer be turned, all clearance has been removed. After the clearance has been removed, tighten the nut an additional 1 / 4 of a turn.
5. Repeat this procedure for each valve, turning the crankshaft 1 / 4 turn to the next mark each time and following the engine firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.

Drain antifreeze -DON"T POUR IT DOWN A STORM DRAIN - then remove valve cover, Remove exhaust from head assembly. On this engine the head is also the intake manifold - it's cast as a unit. Remove carb and remove heater hoses from carb base plate. Remove head bolts and discard. Break head loose from block - may have to smack it a time or two to break gasket loose. Get a buddy to help lift the head off the block - it's fairly heavy. Clean gasket surfaces on both head and block. Install new gasket onto block - pay attention to gasket orientation - it goes on only one way correctly. Reverse procedure to re-install - USE NEW HEAD BOLTS! Silly to try to save $20 bucks on bolts and ruin an engine.