1966 Ford Mustang - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I WOULD REPLACE IT.WHICH WILL BE MORE SAFER.SO YOU WONT HAVE BRAKE FAILURE.

check the unit in the distributor first the voltage regulator controls the voltage from the alternator and is not in the ignition circuit check for bad grounds and broken wires

yes sir

That's because your talking about the starter relay on the fender right! It's N/G when you turn on the key your jumping one side to the other which is the cable from the battery to the cable going to the starter that is bad inside the connection should end when you turn the key to the off position but it's not so the engine keeps running and possibly the starter is still cranking if not your lucky because that's what usually happens and it kills the starter and chews up the flywheel now did this happen before you changed any parts or after if after the ignition switch you changed is not adjusted properly so when you turn the key to the off position the circuit isn't opening and killing the voltage you see I have no idea when you did what so this is also a possibility look at the starter motor there is a braided strap at the end the nose of the starter in the front it's a ground strap if it's frayed and broken all you will get is a click when you turn the key also you changed the ignition key switch this is connected to the ignition switch by a rod that goes down the column and if you didn't connect it well nothings happening and if you did connect it I'm certain that you didn't adjust the ignition switch not the key switch you have to leave the screws or nuts loose a little bit and move the switch around back N forth to get it right so it starts and shuts off when it's supposed to I'm trying real hard to help you so you really need to be specific about how and when you changed things before or after and write down the order of things you are doing and still doing otherwise anyone here who picks up on you can help remember none of us are at the vehicle with you so you ar e the eyes and ears that tells us what your doing or have done so post back a little more precisely if this has not helped you already good luck and make sure all connections are clean Never use a wire brush it ripps the metal to shreds and on lead cable terminals the result is loose cables 4 0// that's 0000 grade steel wool is what you use to clean terminals eyelets on cables and wd40-pb blaster liquid wrench and a carbon conductive grease to lube them NEVER USE THE SPRAY IT TURNS THE WHOLE AREA LIVE AND MORE PROBLEMS LIKE SHORTING TO GROUND AND FIRES can result and in case your wondering I'm a taxi mechanic with 50 years experience in nyc and your info is good stuff good luck again I have to go back to an alternator rebuild and transmission install on a crown victoria the chariot drivers here are amazing they drive through store windows at least once a month and if you ever come here walk the streets facing the cars so you can see it before your a hendrix lyric tire tracks all across your back I see you had your fun! And have fun fixing your girl mustang Sally yay stephen

make sure to put the gasket on the distributor?

There is a process for locating the problem that you are describing. The issue is called parasitic drain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXX8TfzRAKk

1966 Mustang Specifications

Remove rear seat. Remove arm rest. Remove side panel. Remove 3 (or 4) nuts that hold the side ornament in place. Hope this helps.

Not sure what you are asking? If just the three pulleys, go around each in a big circle and use alternator adjustment to take up slack.

The chokes on those carburetors never worked even when new. You have to(try to) adjust it cold so that it is closed, then, make sure the heat riser is hooked up, watch it as the engine warms up and see if it opens up. Should just take a couple minutes, it would be easier to hook up a bicycle cable to it and pull it on and off. Also, you should be able to adjust the timing a little so that thing will fire right up, check the timing and make sure the plugs are good and the wires. Hope this helps.

Good question. Try a site for Mustang Owners like a Club online. The spring tension can be adjustable by moving the tab that houses the spring on each arm. If you are concerned with the position, simply move the arm on the serrated shaft until the blades rest on the cowl. There should be little pressure. The sweep should fall in line with the "at rest" position. If not, a small adjustment can be made to maximize sweep.

Have you checked to see if wiring is reconnected to the blower motor, and if you have power there, if not, check the fuse.

Wrong gauge for the sensor? Bad gauge?

The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...



Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

Look on drivers door should have a plate or open hood on driver side fender on lip that goes under hood when close will be stamp there.

I'm assuming you set the ring and pinion up properly. With Ford's there is a crushed ring you should use a new one, tight the pinion nut until there is a slight drag. If it's too tight the bearing will heat up, if it's to lose it will wobble.Ideally the nut should be tightened with no seal in it and out of the carrier, to provide a resistance while turning of 20-25 inch pounds using an inch tork wrench. When you do a final assembly use loctite on and nut. If you need more information there are youtube videos available. Good luck.

Recheck ALL the wiring, check the brake light switch and signal switch. Either on could have gone bad due to its age. Them suspect the controller for the lights. What do the 4 ways do? I think I would be suspecting the signal switch. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

Try one of the Mustang owners clubs. Someone there most likely will have what you need. http://www.mustang.org/

Vin Number on car drivers side on dash call dealer or do a search on vin #

If it's a "K" code hi-po 289, then it has solid lifters and the valve clearance is adjustable. If a standard 289, then it has hydraulic lifters which are zero clearance and self adjusting, i.e. there is no adjusting screw on the rocker arm.