20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Explorer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Gas engine? How long since it's had a major service? Replace spark plugs and air filter?

98 Explorer No High Beams Problem - Ford Explorer and Ranger ...

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=374129

Nov 15, 2012 - 16 posts - ‎8 authors 98 Explorer XLT 4X4 - No high beams. I've read thru many threads here and other places about this. Pulled and checked every fuse - all good ... Fog Lights Off When High Beams Activated - Normal? 19 posts Nov 30, 2015 Headlights not working (not MFS, Fuses, or bulbs) 12 posts Feb 24, 2015 97 explorer no low beams high beams 3 posts Nov 4, 2013 no headlights in 96 15 posts May 7, 2009 More results from www.explorerforum.com

there is a lot to completing this job, your best bet is to look it up on youtube, that will show you step by step. Good Luck it would take a lot of explaining on here.

Put a new gasket

Along with everyone's suggestions, also check the sway bar bushings where they connect to the frame. These bushings tend to squeak a lot on certain models.

How do you know anti-theft needs to be reset ,Is the security light on or flashing ? Maybe a wiring connector didn't get hooked up correctly .

If thats an automatic..its the fluid. Put specified type in to level. Or bringit by a partstor for help

It's in the under hood power distribution box. Relay #2

Don't think fuse , maybe starter relay in underhood fuse box. Do you know what a relay is ? You should find a wiring diagram an see what all is involved in your vehicles starting system . Relay , park neutral safety switch , wiring , PCM - engine computer ,two power supply's ( B+).You can get free wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com , Then I suggest you go on youtube an check out some electrical trouble shooting videos , an no crank - no start videos as well . Rather then going at this blind.

FORD: 1997-2000 EXPLORER, MOUNTAINEER
ISSUE: A "knocking" noise at start up for up to 2 minutes from the left hand front chain cassette area may occur on some vehicles. After engine shutdown, the tensioner oil supply gallery empties. The noise may be due to air entering the left hand tensioner when the engine is restarted.
ACTION: Replace the left hand camshaft tensioner with a revised Tensioner Kit. Refer to the Instruction Sheet within the Tensioner Kit for service procedure details.
WARNING: THE XU2Z-6K254-AA TENSIONER KIT IS FOR INSTALLATION ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE ONLY. INSTALLATION OF THIS KIT ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE MAY RESULT IN ENGINE FAILURE. IF A TENSIONER IS NEEDED FOR THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE, USE KIT XU3Z-6K254-BA.
PART NUMBER PART NAME XU2Z-6K254-AA Tensioner Kit - Left Side XU3Z-6K254-BA Tensioner Kit - Right Side

SECTION 303-01B: Engine — 4.0L SOHC 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Timing Drive Components —LH Hydraulic Chain Tensioner Removal and Installation

1. Remove the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold—Upper in this section.

Intake Manifold —Upper Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube (9B659); refer to Section 303-12 .

1. Remove the bolts and the accelerator control splash shield.

1. Remove the accelerator cable (9A758) and speed control actuator cable (9A825).
   1. Pull up on speed control actuator cable to remove.
   1. Rotate the throttle body cam and remove the accelerator cable from the cam.

1. Remove the screws, the accelerator cable and speed control actuator cable.

1. Disconnect the RH upper intake manifold vacuum connection.

1. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector.

1. Disconnect the TP sensor electrical connector.

1. Disconnect the engine vacuum regulator (EVR) and the variable induction system (VIS) solenoid electrical connections.

1. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose (6853).

1. Disconnect the power brake booster vacuum line.

1. Remove the 12 bolts.

1. NOTE: Inspect the O-rings and replace as necessary.
   Disconnect the LH fuel vapor management valve (VMV) hose.

1. NOTE: Inspect the O-rings and replace as necessary.
   Disconnect the RH VMV hose and remove the upper intake manifold.

1. Remove the thermostat housing. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .

1. Remove the LH camshaft tensioner.
   • If using a new washer, tighten to 44 Nm (32 lb-ft).
   • If using the old washer, tighten to 67 Nm (49 lb-ft).

1. Remove the pipe plug, and the oil volume reduction plug.

1. NOTE: Be sure to install the new oil volume reduction plug supplied with the hydraulic chain tensioner.
   To install, reverse the removal procedure.

please rate as fixed if this helps you

It may well be that your fuel pump has seen better days. An in-tank pump actually does a lot of work lifting the fuel and pushing it to the engine (that's why some vehicles have a second fuel pump fitted - to assist). I once owned A VW that had the same symptoms as you describe. Sometimes, at speed, it would just cut out. It was the fuel pump at fault and a new one cured the problem. It was almost as if the old fuel pump would work properly for a while and then cut out. It would deliver fuel at the correct pressure for a while and then...

The light is an instruction to look at the accumulated data in the self-diagnostic system. The problems may be determined using a scanner. You can get a free scan at most Autozone, Oreilys or Advance parts stores. They may find the cause of many different problems.

The relays are normally just plug and play, IE just pull out the old and then push down the new, very much like spade fuses.

first you need to locate the relay behind drivers side dash usually if your turn signal still clicks left or right leave it on ,it will make it easier to locate once you find it unplug it and attach the new one then put back were it was

it may not be the belt that is the problem it could be the A/C clutch that is squealing or the A/C compressor unit cheers.

Try cleaning the throttle plate or first check an see if it is gummed up ! This could cause an intermittent fast idle .

Fig. 19: Timing chain alignment - 4.0L engine (click image for zoom)

Hope this helps.

You have a running code or its called limp mode if u have access to a obd2 scanner u can find your gremlin ! Thanks Chris

the overdrive light flashing on a A4Od transmission is a fault signal for the transmission , just like a ck engine light but for the transmission only , get a code read to find the fault stored in the ecm and then you'll know what exactly it is its very common for engine swaps to have a few intermittent sensor failures on restart due to the connectors all getting maybe not all the care and protection they deserve in the swap (plastic baggies) and having a bit of dirt and corrosion in them now (spray contact cleaner) with the od in/out/in/out an educated guess is that the engine throttle position sensor is not being read now , but a code reader will tell all