1997 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hello

The engine and the automatic transmission in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems.

Check water pump

If someone worked on your car recently, there is a shutoff switch in the trunk and they may have forgotten to turn it back on. (A normal service procedure when lifting the car)The easiest thing to do is find a place having the correct scanner to check this fuction. All scanners do not have this function. Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys may on a place to place basis,have what you need and they do free testing. Otherwise you need to go to a repair facility for a test.About all you can check yourself with a bottle of soapy water and the car running are the airlines and suspension bags. A leak will bubble the soapspray.The doorjam and trunklid switches are also part of the system.I hope my solution helps you.

Try sliding a thin long metal shim such as a butterknife in between, you may have to "Pickthe Lock",once it unlocks, you'll need to go see "Yard" for a used retainer that has 1 big bolt thru the floor, under the seat

they have a common fuse check the fuses they should be under the left side of the dash

A bent rotor or a stuck piston in ur caliper either from dirt in caliper or a bad your brake hose. Thats what I'd say were the most likely causes and if you don't feel a wobble I'd say the caliper on one of your wheels. chk ur pads if 1 set is worn a lot more than the others or an excessive amount of brake dust on 1 rim that could be your culprit. Hope that helps.

It is likely the door ajar switch inside the door is defective. The system that controls this can be scanned to confirm this problem by the Ford dealer with a special scan tool called an "NGS"

THERE ARE 3 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE STARTER IN PLACE. THE STARTER IS LOCATED AT THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE ENGINE UNDERNEATH, OR PASSENGER SIDE AS LOOKING FORWARD. ONE BOLT WILL BE AT THE SIX O'CLOCK POSITION, ONE AT THE 3 O'CLOCK, AND ONE AT THE 1 O'CLOCK POSITION. THE TWO A THE BOTTOM AND SIDE ARE EASY TO ACCESS. THE TOP ONE WILL REQUIRE AN EXTENSION, A RATCHET, A SWIVEL AND AN APPROPRIATE THIN WALL SOCKET TO BE ABLE TO GET IT ON THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. THERE IN MINIMAL CLEARANCE ON THE TOP BOLT POSITION.

drent44,Your shift-lock actuator works off of your brake lamp circuits. Check your brake lamps. If your brake lamps are not working, then there is a very good chance that fixing your brake lamps will fix your shifter.To work around this so you can move the vehicle, turn the key just far enough to unlock the steering wheel, but not far enough to make all the dash lights come on. You should then be able to shift the transmission to NEUTRAL and start the engine. Everything will work ok with your shifter until you put it back in PARK.

there should be a relay called "neutral/park relay" in relay box. If it is broken or if it cant get electrical signal from your brake pedal or shifter, it wont allow you to start car.find that relay, remove it, check it by supplying power to pins numbered 85 and 86 and try to hear instant click sound. if no sound relay is broken.if relay is ok you need to check for wires coming from shifter and brake pedal switches.

• Here are your diagrams.

Pinging is associated with either too low octane in the gas or timing. First thing to do would check any codes that may be in the computer. this could lead to a solution, i.e. cam sensor, crank sensor not reading right.Try running a tank or two of premium or high test through the car and see if that helps make it go away. Timing is also a good possibility because your car would have a timing chain instead of a belt. The chain will stretch over time and leads to the timing being off. I would get it checked and reset. If your mileage is over 100,000 miles consider setting it ahead 2 or 3 degrees to make up for the slack.If the engine is running hotter that it used to and pinging there is a good possibility that it may be running lean. This is a recipe for disaster and should be taken to a mechanic to sort out. Hope this helps.

The air conditioning condenser creates a lot of heat when the a/c is on. The cooling fan is supposed to run the whole time the a/c is on to keep it cool. If the fan isn't on, the radiator will absorb this heat and cause your car to over heat. You should also check your coolant level. So, it sounds to me like your cooling fan isn't working.

Hi.

P0171 is a DTC (trouble code) triggered by the O2 sensor (AKA oxygen or lambda sensor) located in the exhaust to report that the sensor has detected that the air/fuel mixture injected in the cylinders contains too much air.

If there are no other symptoms and the code does not come back after resetting (codes are reset after scanning), then usually there is nothing to worry about. In some case temporary faults may result in a lean code.

If the code appears again there are different things to check.

A lean code means not enough fuel in mixture. That can be caused by a defective injector, by fuel circulation problems, by electronic injection mixing fuel and air in the wrong way or by an open vacuum hose aspiring extra air into the engine.

The technical description of P0171 From service documentation says:


CODE:
Lean shift in fuel system operation - P0171 (Bank 1)

EXPLANATION:
The Adaptive Fuel Strategy Fuel System continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The code is set when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich •Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.

Fuel System:
•Contaminated fuel injectors
•Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump, filter, fuel supply line restrictions)
•Vapor recovery system (VMV)

My suggestions:

Check the injectors and do an injector cleanup.
Test fuel pressure. The test is done using a fuel gauge like this: Lisle 20300 . Your car's fuel pressure must be between 35/45 PSI.

Check air intake condition, make sure the assembly is all in one piece and that there are no air leaks. Replace filter and clean the MAF sensor in the intake. A defective sensor or a sensor with dirty screen may result in incorrect fuel mixture.

Check the vacuum system. A leak in one of the vacuum hose will trigger a Lean code. Big vacuum leaks can be spotted at a glance. Small leaks can be detected spraying carb cleaner in the vacuum hoses. If there is a leak the engine will rev up a bit when the leak is temporarily obstructed by carburetor cleaner. The gauge can also be used to check if pressure in vacuum hose go up.

Check the Vapor recovery system and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Check vacuum connected to VMV system and check all the parts comprised in PCV system. Check also that EGR valve is not stuck closed and check the idle air control (IAC) valve.



Below a picture of the parts comprised in PCV system:



Here a picture showing position of IAC valve, see the arrows. Click on image to enlarge:

the switch is shorted, if it moves in one direction but not the other, its the switch , since all the switch does is reverse the power supplied to it,, the up side of the switch is bad, replace it

you never describe what type of fuel does your car use... is it a diesel or petrol engine? if its a diesel engine then i have the correct sollution that can help you. the problem will be on the injector pump, on the main switch. change the switch and the problem will be solved. or check whether power reaches there. when it reaches then is the injector switch doesnt work to close the main valve that the car can switch off. all the best

Hello! Go to the following link for a diagram of a 1995 crown vic...Same as 1997...Guru...Saailer



http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/254296_1 I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Hopefully this will help you.. Best of Luck..

• If I may suggest that you go and have a second opinion with the caliper in question.
• You could have a faulty caliper/piston.
• Sub standard pads and rotors can cause this.
• Check the entire hose. Sometimes clamps that hold the hose in place along the line can pinch the hose. If someone was negligent when replacing the caliper.
• Improper or to large of pads could have been installed and they don't move properly on the little metal tracks.
• There is one other thing that can cause this but it would normally be in all wheels and this is the brake booster. Which is to say the brake booster is a helping hand of sorts because when using pad/rotter there is a great deal more pressure needed than with cylinder/shoe style brakes.

• That's about everything that could cause this. Good luck to you. I recommend having a second opinion and let them have a look. Seems like the first one is just costing you money.

• If you have any comments please leave them here and I will respond.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Check if there is current on the switch, if yes then check the engine winer.