1997 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 10 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you say this free when?

best to take it to a ford dealer, 3 yr 75000 mile warranty, yeah it will cost a bit more, but what you buy is getting backed. this is a transmission headed south fast. take a look at the fluid and see if the color is nice and red or turning brown or black. it could be simple thing, but if not you will be at the right place for getting a good repair.

yes it is safer to use a bal joint press . and it goes downward.

By nothing on the top end is working do you mean that the distributor is not turning (or turns but "stutters") This and unusually fast engine cranking usually indicate a failed chain (actually when you remove it the chain will be intact but the cam gear will be destroyed) Chain is stretched don't use it.

try cleaning the MAF. More info here:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_lean_codes.htm

A DIRTY MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR. IT'S LOCATED IN THE BIG TUBE RUNNING FROM YOUR AIR FILTER BOX TO THE THROTTLE BODY ON THE ENGINE. CLEAN IT BY TAKING IT OFF AND BUYING SOME MASS AIR CLEANER OR A GOOD ELECTRICAL CLEANER SOLD AT AUTOMOTIVE STORES.CRC IS A GOOD BRAND.SPRAY THE CLEANER ON THE SENSORS THEY LOOK LIKE LITTLE WIRES/COILED SPRINGS INSIDE THE HOUSING..THIS SHOULD TAKE CARE OF YOUR PROBLEM..

In the 1995 and later Crown Victoria's, there is a fuse in the fuseblock that controls the alternator's charging of the battery. If that fuse is blown, your car will drain the battery and cut off as you stated.
Check the fuse block under the hood and the one located on the left driver side above the hood pull.

no more then 10 to 15 bolts they are under the hood remove the inner fender and you will see the rest and there should be one or two under the car near the doors

Under the coil packs

try the following, if that doesn't correct it u may need to replace the air bypass valve.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

there is a coolant hose that runs under the upper section of the intake manifold, this is the most likely source of the coolant leak, u can't really see the hose until u remove the pper intake..

You need to have your wheel speed sensors replaced, they are malfunctioning and telling the computer they are spinning at different speeds. Good luck!

no... the 97 crown vic has a timing chain not a timing belt...it involve 7.4 hrs book time to replace with gears ...parts to include front gaskets and timing kit about 200+ in parts and at 75 an hr ..555 in labor..guessing less than 1k to do the job ..(here in california)

I had a problem with a chevy with random misffires on all cylinders. It was the computer. Fords have very few problems with there computers. Does the check engine come on? Maybe have it scanned. 

Contact your local Ford dealer. I'm sure they will help you out. 

Well first you need to check fuel pressure. You must be from the south if you mean that it tries to crank is that it tries to start.

on fords they are usually rivited in if done by dealer. if it is after market its bolted. then you must use a ball joint press to press the old out and the new in.

Infront Of Catalic Converter or after, any other OBD codes?

you cut the wires to the fuel pump go to autozone website and look at the repair manuals and then you will have a choice of wire diagrams that can tell you what color wire goes to what. but if you have the wire sticking out where you cut them put **** connectors on the wires and you should be able to get the pump going again. i would also say you may have blown the fuse for the fuel so if its does not start humming when you turn the key and you should hear something check the fuse.

Sounds like you're on the right track. A bad TPS and ISC motor sensor will cause the problems you're experiencing. Your ECM relies on the readings it gets from the TPS to be sure there is enough air getting to the engine. If the ECM gets a bad reading and thinks not enough air is getting to the engine, it will cut the fuel supply, hence causing your engine to die. Your ISC relies on the reading from the TPS as well. It detects from the ECM if the throttle plate is closed or not. If it thinks the throttle plate is fully closed, it will start allowing air to enter the engine and bypass the throttle plate. If your ECM starts seeing some unmeasured air coming from ISC and detects the throttle plate is open (which it may not be due to a bad TPS reading), the ECM will again cut the fuel supply to avoid the risk of detonation.

So, replace your TPS first and see if that cures your problem. Also, check the resistence readings of your ISC to be sure that is within spec. If your problem still occurs, check your Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in your air filter housing. Be sure your spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor are all in good shape as well. Replace your fuel filter if you haven't done so in the past 2-3 years.
Good luck!