Top 20 1997 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 4 Questions & Answers

HOW BROKE IN A 1998 CROWN VIC TRUNK

• Here are your diagrams.

drent44,Your shift-lock actuator works off of your brake lamp circuits. Check your brake lamps. If your brake lamps are not working, then there is a very good chance that fixing your brake lamps will fix your shifter.To work around this so you can move the vehicle, turn the key just far enough to unlock the steering wheel, but not far enough to make all the dash lights come on. You should then be able to shift the transmission to NEUTRAL and start the engine. Everything will work ok with your shifter until you put it back in PARK.

there should be a relay called "neutral/park relay" in relay box. If it is broken or if it cant get electrical signal from your brake pedal or shifter, it wont allow you to start car.find that relay, remove it, check it by supplying power to pins numbered 85 and 86 and try to hear instant click sound. if no sound relay is broken.if relay is ok you need to check for wires coming from shifter and brake pedal switches.

THERE ARE 3 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE STARTER IN PLACE. THE STARTER IS LOCATED AT THE RIGHT REAR CORNER OF THE ENGINE UNDERNEATH, OR PASSENGER SIDE AS LOOKING FORWARD. ONE BOLT WILL BE AT THE SIX O'CLOCK POSITION, ONE AT THE 3 O'CLOCK, AND ONE AT THE 1 O'CLOCK POSITION. THE TWO A THE BOTTOM AND SIDE ARE EASY TO ACCESS. THE TOP ONE WILL REQUIRE AN EXTENSION, A RATCHET, A SWIVEL AND AN APPROPRIATE THIN WALL SOCKET TO BE ABLE TO GET IT ON THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. THERE IN MINIMAL CLEARANCE ON THE TOP BOLT POSITION.

Hi.

P0171 is a DTC (trouble code) triggered by the O2 sensor (AKA oxygen or lambda sensor) located in the exhaust to report that the sensor has detected that the air/fuel mixture injected in the cylinders contains too much air.

If there are no other symptoms and the code does not come back after resetting (codes are reset after scanning), then usually there is nothing to worry about. In some case temporary faults may result in a lean code.

If the code appears again there are different things to check.

A lean code means not enough fuel in mixture. That can be caused by a defective injector, by fuel circulation problems, by electronic injection mixing fuel and air in the wrong way or by an open vacuum hose aspiring extra air into the engine.

The technical description of P0171 From service documentation says:


CODE:
Lean shift in fuel system operation - P0171 (Bank 1)

EXPLANATION:
The Adaptive Fuel Strategy Fuel System continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The code is set when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich •Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.

Fuel System:
•Contaminated fuel injectors
•Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump, filter, fuel supply line restrictions)
•Vapor recovery system (VMV)

My suggestions:

Check the injectors and do an injector cleanup.
Test fuel pressure. The test is done using a fuel gauge like this: Lisle 20300 . Your car's fuel pressure must be between 35/45 PSI.

Check air intake condition, make sure the assembly is all in one piece and that there are no air leaks. Replace filter and clean the MAF sensor in the intake. A defective sensor or a sensor with dirty screen may result in incorrect fuel mixture.

Check the vacuum system. A leak in one of the vacuum hose will trigger a Lean code. Big vacuum leaks can be spotted at a glance. Small leaks can be detected spraying carb cleaner in the vacuum hoses. If there is a leak the engine will rev up a bit when the leak is temporarily obstructed by carburetor cleaner. The gauge can also be used to check if pressure in vacuum hose go up.

Check the Vapor recovery system and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Check vacuum connected to VMV system and check all the parts comprised in PCV system. Check also that EGR valve is not stuck closed and check the idle air control (IAC) valve.



Below a picture of the parts comprised in PCV system:



Here a picture showing position of IAC valve, see the arrows. Click on image to enlarge:

Hello! Go to the following link for a diagram of a 1995 crown vic...Same as 1997...Guru...Saailer



http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/254296_1 I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

you never describe what type of fuel does your car use... is it a diesel or petrol engine? if its a diesel engine then i have the correct sollution that can help you. the problem will be on the injector pump, on the main switch. change the switch and the problem will be solved. or check whether power reaches there. when it reaches then is the injector switch doesnt work to close the main valve that the car can switch off. all the best

the switch is shorted, if it moves in one direction but not the other, its the switch , since all the switch does is reverse the power supplied to it,, the up side of the switch is bad, replace it

The air conditioning condenser creates a lot of heat when the a/c is on. The cooling fan is supposed to run the whole time the a/c is on to keep it cool. If the fan isn't on, the radiator will absorb this heat and cause your car to over heat. You should also check your coolant level. So, it sounds to me like your cooling fan isn't working.

Hopefully this will help you.. Best of Luck..

FIRST I WOULD CHECK THE HORN FUSE OR RELAY ...CHECK YOUR OWNERS MANUEL TO SEE FOR LOCATION PROBABLY UNDER HOOD IN A RELAY STATION BOX.IF THOSE ARE GOOD..THEN POSSIBLE BAD HORN ITSELF OR BAD CONTACT BEHIND THE DRIVER AIRBAG,STEERING WHEEL.

Pinging is associated with either too low octane in the gas or timing. First thing to do would check any codes that may be in the computer. this could lead to a solution, i.e. cam sensor, crank sensor not reading right.Try running a tank or two of premium or high test through the car and see if that helps make it go away. Timing is also a good possibility because your car would have a timing chain instead of a belt. The chain will stretch over time and leads to the timing being off. I would get it checked and reset. If your mileage is over 100,000 miles consider setting it ahead 2 or 3 degrees to make up for the slack.If the engine is running hotter that it used to and pinging there is a good possibility that it may be running lean. This is a recipe for disaster and should be taken to a mechanic to sort out. Hope this helps.

• If I may suggest that you go and have a second opinion with the caliper in question.
• You could have a faulty caliper/piston.
• Sub standard pads and rotors can cause this.
• Check the entire hose. Sometimes clamps that hold the hose in place along the line can pinch the hose. If someone was negligent when replacing the caliper.
• Improper or to large of pads could have been installed and they don't move properly on the little metal tracks.
• There is one other thing that can cause this but it would normally be in all wheels and this is the brake booster. Which is to say the brake booster is a helping hand of sorts because when using pad/rotter there is a great deal more pressure needed than with cylinder/shoe style brakes.

• That's about everything that could cause this. Good luck to you. I recommend having a second opinion and let them have a look. Seems like the first one is just costing you money.

• If you have any comments please leave them here and I will respond.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Hello, This is a tough problem to find when there are no Diagnostics. I suspect the problem is due to a term called "Heat Sink"

What this term means is that the engine compartment is getting hotter when the engine is just shut off, than when it is running. When the Tow truck moved your car, wind passed by while the Tow truck moved your vehicle. This helped cool it off regardless of when the car was towed.

A lot of times the heat shields on the Catalytic converters are rusted off. In a pursuit vehicle, they could have been knocked off. This means someone needs to look under your car to see what is missing.

The electric components like the Ignition module, coil, Relays, and fuel lines can be overheating.

Try opening your hood when you park your car at home and then go out shortly afterwards and try starting the car. If it helps, you need to find the component that is overheating and replace any missing heat shields.

I hope my solution is very helpful. You can also get FREE scans at Autozne, Advance, and Oreillys autoparts when you get a Code light.

Check if there is current on the switch, if yes then check the engine winer.

Your going to need to take it to a shop, to pull a vacuum
& have it leak tested & charged,so let them look at the
orifice valve

Unless you had a compressor failure it will be okey

almost alway a vacuum line with a hole in it or off

UBDER THE BACK OF THE CAR

have a 97 crown vic, in warm weather it idles fine and run fine now that its cold I have to hold at high idle to have warm up for about 10 mins. if I just start it the engine will die with out me holding on foot on the gas