1995 Ford F150 Styleside Regular Cab - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

videos here https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+f150+xl+4.9+ecm+location ..

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

1. Remove the steering column shroud
   

1. Remove two self-tapping screws that attach the multi-function switch to the steering column tube casting. Disengage multi-function switch from casting.

1. Disconnect the two electrical connectors, using caution not to damage the locking tabs. Do not damage PRNDL cable.
   

1
Steering Column 2
Screw 3
Multi-Function Switch 4
Wiring to Multi-Function Switch A
Tighten to 2-3 Nm
(18-27 Lb-In)


Installation

1. Install the two switch electrical connectors to full engagement. The wiring for the switch is to be routed under the PRNDL cable.

1. Align the mounting holes on multi-function switch with the holes in the steering column tube casting. Install two self-tapping screws making sure to start the screws in the previously tapped holes. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).

1. For automatic transmission (7003), verify that the PRNDL adjustment is correct.

1. Install the steering column shroud.

1. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more for powertrain control module to relearn the strategy.
   
2. Connect the battery ground cable.
   
3. Check the steering column tube for proper operation.
   

I hope this helps, if you have any questions just ask

The steering wheel doesn't need to be removed in this vehicle the ignition cylinder is removed in this video.

https://postimg.org/image/93lc33m5x/ Click on the link. Found this for your mirrors. Hope it helps.

Check the coolant temp sensor (the one that speaks to the ECU) which acts like the choke on a old carb type engine. These can be tested with a multimeter by dunking them in different temp water.

Hi there, I am no mechanic, but have had similar issues. Essentially, with a key-in, turn-over, no start condition; there are only two causes: 1) no fuel; or 2) no spark. Determining which, and where in each system chain the root cause is a matter of elimination. Having said that, where I would start (based on my similar condition to yours), is the throttle position sensor (the sensor that tells the truck's computer how open/closed the butterfly valve is within your throttle body. Essentially, my sensor was cracked, causing the truck to receive signals that were conflicting with the vehicle rpm, speed, etc. so the computer would shut the truck down (or go to safe mode). The sensor I replaced costs $30 and took 5 minutes to repair. Good luck.

See if this helps - F150 Wheel Hub Replacement DIY

You can get a 1996 manual at the link below. That may be close enough. It shows 5 relays in the box under the hood. Relay 2 is for the fuel pump. Your wiring diagrams are at the second link below, and the particular diagram for the relay is at the third link. http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=2020

I assume that you have not been able to properly charge this A/C? If not, use a cotter pin to short the terminals on the low pressure switch. Charge it to the proper pressures. Remove the cotter pin and reconnect the low pressure switch.

Hi, Did you use Motorcraft tune-up parts or el-cheapos? If the latter than you cap/rotor may be bad. There is likely a code 'stored' in the truck's computer. See the attached video on how to read them. GL TD How to read check engine light code on Ford 1983 1995 EEC 4 system

Replace the ignition lock assembly then.

Try new starter or even try bridging a screwdriver to engage the starter manually that will tell u if its starter or something else

You need to have the fuel pump pressure tested when this loss of power is present. You should at least 42 PSI and about 50 PSI under a load or when the throttle is applied quickly. The fuel pressure test port is on the fuel supply rail on the top of engine, it is a pipe that sits over the fuel injectors. The fuel press test port looks like a tire inflator valve.

sounds like either a vacuum leak (check the bottom of the "tomatoe juice can" for starters) or a bad or plugged egr valve or egr solenoid.check engine lite refers to emissions probs only...most likely egr or vac leak. Had the same prob on my 95 5.0 f150...needed new can and egr valve.

Bad valve body in transmission

Irregular or seldom

Mercon R

The vaccume line that switches it is disconected or broken,,,under hood or dash,,,,, under hood location ,,,pass side,,,,,firewall,,about 10" down and 12" over will be close near ac/ heater hoses,,, either black or red plastic line,,,under dash loaction,behind glove box or ,, maybe back of temp brokin or undone you will have to track it down,,,, the temp control unit could be bad aswell

What size is end of line,put the same size o ring,try to fix leak.

Yes, this is a pretty easy fix. You can replace the fitting but I would buy the replacement line and put that in. the fittings will already be on it and bent to fit. If you are leaking at the fitting there are probably several other points along the line that are ready to pop.