20 Most Recent 1993 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Take it to transmission shop you may need bands adjustment or band and clutches worn out.... transmission shop will check no charge really nothing one can do without a shop and a hoist make sure you have oil and a plugged trans filter would do that if it did something cooked if the car is worth it get a rebuilt put in cheaper than trying to repair is high invest it in a rebuilt with warranty better than towing off highwayJoeJoe

check the parking light fuse

Depends on which Brake line. Usually when 1 goes bad the rest are not far behind.Brake lines are in sections. There are some which are short, rubber coated lines close to the wheels. These must flex for the motion of the wheel.Other lines are total metal, and are rigidly mounted to mounting blocks where they join the flexible lines. They often go long distances the length of the car frame.You can buy preformed line sets, the better ones are stainless steel or composite nickel/copper. Some must be built and bent to fit with bending tools and flaring kits for the ends. The tools may be loaned from some Autoparts stores.The shorter, rubber coated lines are the easiest to replace. You will have to bleed the entire system when any line is replaced. There are tools which can make this a 1 man job.I tell many of my clients that the first experience with this problem should be as an observer. Unlike a car which fails to start after a new part is attached, a new brake part improperly attached will cause an accident. In the old days, a brake job routinely required rebuilding wheel cylinders or calipers. Now, the same parts are left undisturbed and the pads and shoes are all that is removed. The hydraulic system is kept closed.You will need special tubing wrenches to open each wheel bleed valve or a 6 point socket to break the bleeder free. But to tighten the fitting, special wrenches work best. Apply NO heat to the bleeder valve as brakefluid is highly combustible.All 4 wheels must be bled when 1 line is removed. Regardless of which wheel position was removed, start with the longest brakeline and bleed it first. Then the next longest and so on. Make sure to check brake fluid levels constantly in the Master cylinder.I hope my solution is helpful.

Usually if the drain tube for the AC is plugged the front passenger floor gets wet, not the rear.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0900c152801e4b65&partName=Windshield+Wiper+Motor&partId=0900c152801e4b65 Click on link and you will see.

Check if there is an obstruction in the tracks. Usually a penny or dime will get caught in the tracks and stop it from moving freely. You can remove the seat from the car and pull the seat release while moving the seat back and forth to wither dislodge the obstruction or to identify it for sure.

Have you checked the fuel pressure since you replaced the pump ?Did you jumper the relay to make the pump run and see if the engine will run ?

HelloThe engine in this cars drive train is fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM. Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s)

Think about what you wroteThe only fact based discription was a drained battery & stallingSo you obviously have to have someonediagnose those two issues,if you could, youwouldn't ask the question as you didNext you jump for some reason to the fuelpump,a relay or fuse & even say your guessingAgain,only having the proper reference material& diagnostic skills with basic electricity, will solveyour cars issues.Also you can not charge a worn out batteryThat may be your only problemI had one last week in my own lincoln thatwent to 12.1 also, when I was looking at myscan tool software. It died in front of my eyes,unexpected & I only caught it because of all thedata I had. The Module Voltage dropped & Iknow I had to go to the battery for answers.

Sounds like a vacuum leak! or Fuel pump relays

Sounds like the starter failed> If you have a small hammer lightly rap on the starter acouple of times > if it starts that will confirm you need a starter> Repkace the starter ASAP. if not call a tow truck> NOTE: don't get burned if the vehicle is hot > let it cool down.

No idea i am a europeon mechanic whos never seen this car except on the TV perhaps so please try a direct question to emmisionwiz as hes a american ford dealer mechanic and will know what to look for all i can suggest is to follow your nose and and have a good look as it may be just a loose clamp on the cable or if your unlucky its a outer cable sheaf come adrtift from a connection on the end of the cable so the clamp is holding the end but the outer sheaf is adrift anything more i wouldnt know without my head under the bonnet and kicking it up the exhaust pipe

You may be right ,loose or broken. you will need to look at the base of the seat. there is two bolts in the front and the same in the rear. if the bolts are tight then seal track may be broken.Try to move seat while looking at the base where it bolts to the floor. see if its loose bolts. you should be able to see it move.