20 Most Recent 1991 Ford LTD Crown Victoria - Page 3 Questions & Answers

A ford has to have a fully charged battery to make the alternator charge. You can damage the new alt. that way. Take it to a Interstate battery place or equal and get them the test battery and alt. They know what they are doing as the parts house guys don't.

Check your valve cover. The pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is pressed into a rubber grommet, it is a small plastic piece half the size of your finger with a check valve in the middle and its hooked into a rubber hose that goes into your intake or carb depending on your vehicle setup

Try the battery first. Can you get a jump start? Is it more than 4 years old?

1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8

I can't find any information on the security system on the '91 cv. There is however, a fuel pump shutoff switch in the trunk that may need to be reset. It's by the driver side hinge. Remove the protective cover and push the button to reset. There are also two relays for the fuel pump. If you are having trouble getting the fuel pump to work, these may be part of the problem.

check fuse, brake light switch, light ground. You can use a short piece of wire to jump the contacts at the switch to see if the lights go on.

overdrive clutches worn or shift linkage out of adjustment

Hi. I am assumming that the speedometer is still working. If that is the case, it's the vehicle speed sensor that is failing. The vehicle speed sensor, which is mounted in the transmission, creates an electrical signal that is used by both the vehicle’s engine computer, speed & odometer. Failure of this sensor is not uncommon, is not costly and is easily replaced. It would be best to take your vehicle to the repair facility when the problem is occurring. This allows diagnosis to confirm the need of the parts being replaced.

do u have the required pitman arm puller? it is very tight press morris taper shaft fit.

NO , USE A 10 MM SWIVEL SOCKET FOR THE BOTTOM AND SIDE BOLT ,,USE 10 SOCKET AND 4'' EXTENSION TO REMOVE TOP BOLT USE 8MM SOCKET TO REMOVE SWITCH WIRE AND 13 MM TO REMOVENUT ON BATTERY CABLE TERMINAL OF STARTER

DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FIRST

open the screws of cover of speedometer and pull it and release the locks then open the screws of speedometer and ungrip the cables. simple thing do not b afraid of opening it nothing will happen.

You replaced the starter solenoid...but what about the ignition solenoid?

You should still have one of these on an older vehicle. Maybe its old and sticking?

You should also have your battery load tested. It might be putting out low amps or voltage and contributing to the problem. Low voltage can be an big wear factor if allowed to happen long term.

It's usually the window winder that presents the problem . Remove all visable retaining screws ie; Grab handle , Internal door opening lever , Button on top of panel (if applicable ) etc . The majority panel are a pop snap on type . Remove the winder lever withthe aid of a shoe lace or thin piece of cloth material, The winder is retained by a horse-shoe shaped spring clip. .... Pull the shoe-lace/ material in the opposite direction of the winder retainer clip and it will easily come off, but it is a spring clip and may fly off so be careful. Good luck

1991 Ford Crown Victoria
5.0 liter V-8 VIN "F"

there is no fuse for the specific side of your turn signals.
if others flas its either a bad bulb or a bad flasher

have your battery check first.ive never seen a battery that will last for 5 years.shelf life starts as soon as the acid is added to the battery.

This depends where you live ,but in most large meto areas you must pass the emissions test set by your state and they get this from the federal gov't.I you live hopefully some where that emissions testing are not required your vehicle should run just fine with out what your talking about,but please note that it is illeagle to take off any part of your factory emissions system.The fed's and the state are very strict on this the fine are huge ,much cheaper to fix what is broken if this is the case.The Crown Vic's mostly came with 5.0 -- 302 engines that just run forever 1 of ford's best motors they ever built.Good luck I hope this helps ya out .

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the caliper from the spindle and rotor, but do not disconnect the brake hose. Suspend the caliper inside the fender housing with a length of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
4. Remove the grease cap from the hub and remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and adjusting nut.
5. Grasp the hub/rotor assembly and pull it out far enough to loosen the washer and outer wheel bearing. Push the hub/rotor assembly back onto the spindle and remove the washer and outer wheel bearing.
6. Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle.
7. Inspect the rotor for scoring and wear. Replace or machine as necessary. If machining, observe the minimum thickness specification.

1. If the rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor with brake cleaner. Pack a new set of bearings with high-temperature wheel bearing grease and install the inner roller bearing in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly between the lips of a new seal and install the seal, using a seal installer.
2. If the original rotor is being installed, make sure the grease in the hub is clean and adequate, the inner bearing and grease seal are lubricated and in good condition, and the rotor braking surfaces are clean.
3. Install the hub/rotor assembly on the spindle. Keep the assembly centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease seal or spindle threads.
4. Install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut. Adjust the wheel bearings according to the procedure in , then install the nut retainer, cotter pin and grease cap.

the heater core is plugged.you will need to replace it.