1991 Ford F250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Usually the ground wires for the starter are grounded to the engine block. Hope this helps.

The E4OD is a complicated tranny and unfortunately prone to many problems. There are three shift controlling solenoids inside the tranny mounted to the valve body. Without being able to actually drive to evaluate it makes it very hard to give you a starting point for trouble shooting. I have rebuilt many of the E4OD transmissions over the years and found them prone to many problems. That's why Ford quit using them. A tranny shop can hook up to two different line pressure ports to evaluate the problem. But, be warned they are going to recomend a rebuilt be installed. You will be looking at around $ 3300.00 dollars for the rebuilt unit.

remove your engine, trade it in for a rebuilt engine and install it. your head gaskets are bad or your heads are cracked. the engine is 20 years old however and makes no sense to spend a lot to fix it as its expected service life ended a decade ago. makes much more sense to call a junkyard and see if they have an engine which will bolt in with much lower mileage, unlikely, or put in a rebuild. if the body and frame are still good that is what i would do.

Are we looking at the ignition switch or the turn indicator switch, If it is broken replace it .

check the running voltage to the coil if it is greater tan the voltage on the case , check for a problem resistor or resistor wire to the coil in the run position

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? If temp related check the coolant temp sensor. Sometimes ford calls it a cylinder head temp sensor. I'd also use a gage and check proper fuel pressure.

the pump is a mechanical injection pump with the high pressure of 21,000psi being generated in the pump research shows that the f250 and f350 7.3 ltr 1988-1992 were in fact an international indirect injection engine. (IDI) to not have fuel at the injector lines , indicates the the fuel control is in the stopped position and so no fuel gets to the top of the elements controlling the pressure It is a rotary pump ( looks like a petrol distributor with steel lines instead of wires) the replacement cost is around $500.00 best if you talk with an accredited diesel professional shop as to the problem as it will not be uncommon unlikely to have a filter in the body of the pump to cause the problem and more likely to be a broken drive shaft , stop valve blocked or pump element body cracked internally

Lube the starter pinion with graphite in stead of oil or grease for cold weather

unscrew all of the screws around the hubs and never resurface rotors on them,buy new

Clogged cat, clogged injectors, clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump, distributor cap and rotor

Being a 91, take it back. But this really depends on who you had build it. Shade tree guy, your probably going to eat it. Garage, take it back and make them fix it.

It could be the "Main Relay" or no spark. Some cars don't allow fuel to the engine if the computer senses "No Spark". Hope this helps.

Have you checked fuel pressure with a gauge on both tanks ?

There are several things that I would check, Richard. The most obvious is a fuel line leak from the rear tank. Another possibility is a kinked neoprene hose near the tank's fuel pump. It the rear tank has not been used for a while the tank may have some water in it. Try a bottle or two of water remover (isopropyl alcohol). If none of those things are found, then you should get a fuel pump pressure test.

need to know if the hubs are auto locking or manual. the bearings have different locking set ups.

STEERING GEAR BOX PROBABLY BAD NEED TO REPLACE IT RUDY PEREZ

REAR END SPECIALIST..THE BEARING IS COMING OF THE PINION SHAFT AND HAS TO BE DRIVEN BACK ON AND SEALED SO IT WILL NOT SLIDE BACK OFF.. HAD SAME ISSUE.. COST AROUND 200.. ALSO MAKE SURE TO GET POSTIVE TRACK DIFF. ADDIVTIVE.

check the fuses first! they are located on the drivers side fuse panel

Yes, under the truck find the linkage(drivers side). The bar that goes to the throwout bearing bracket will have a threaded arm, with a nut. This is the adjustment. Being a 91, you better have a torch ready to heat the nut and arm up. otherwise it will break. Could break anyway.

you might have to use a block of wood and a hammer to rap it a couple of times , it should slide off.try w40 to loosen it up