20 Most Recent 1990 Ford Festiva Questions & Answers

The 2 problems you have may be in same area. Little verbal to describe but here goes. The crank circuit is to be completed by putting your foot on the brake pedal on an automatic and the clutch pedal on a stick shift. The switch on the brake pedal is often called a boo switch and may be called the same when on the clutch pedal. The manufacturers wanted to make sure the car would not run away in gear for both styled transmissions. You foot must be on brake and/or clutch pedal to turn starter over. The power to the fuel pump needs to flow through a safety switch called an inertia sensor. This part has a reset button on it and it is suppose to disengage on impact. The impact is an inexact science. It can trigger if a door or trunk lid is slammed but usually are reliable. Could be yours just needs to be reset. Then fuel pump would have power again.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/repair_database/90-93%20festiva/camshaft_timing.htm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xldw03o7WQ Hope these help

https://www.google.com/#q=What+are+the+timing+marks+on+the+1990+ford+festiva Hope this helps

check all your fuses to see if you accidently blow and of them. more likely the fuel pump fuse is blown

That will be your CV joint, inner or outer, easy fix.

Sounds like it may be your EGR valve. I'd take a look at the PCV valve first since its the less expensive one to replace and can cause a similar issue.

Vaccunm line.

Unless the car is set up for racing, the engine is mounted to the frame with rubber motor mounts. These mounts, while making lousy electrical conductors, make excellent vibration / noise reducers. In most vehicles there will be a ground strap or wire running from the block to the body because without it, the only ground connection from the block ie. battery negative, to the body is through the engine and moving, oily gears in the transmission. This is not a trust worthy connection for electrical items in the car such as the A/C, radio, interior lamps, and oh yes, the engine computer. If the computer gets a sparkling ground such as moving transmission gears, it doesn't think very well and can confuse such things as air flow sensors, spark timing, oxygen sensor input information and the like. The ground wire from the engine to the body is obviously the shorter, tighter circuit. I would check this out. Good luck. Jeff M.

I need to start slinging spanners again, I could make a fortune

Sharon, it is most lightly to be wheel bearing if the noise gets greater when you are speeding up and lessens while slowing down.

Replace the horn in your hood it has got broken.

use a timing light, fit one end to plug number 1 and the other to the gun lead, remove vac pipe if fitted and it should be firing around 8 degres BTDC, if not loosen dizzy and move just slightly either way. get it set and tighten the 11mm bolt.

Find a timing light and hook up pos. to battery negative to battery and clip on lead to no 1 plug wire, start engine and point towards from pulley .Paint timing marks with white out., they will show up easier when the light flashers.

Always do 1 side at a time! That way you have the other to use as reference to complete/do the job correctly. The only difference from 1 side to the other is everything is in reverse. As far as a diagram for the brakes, I don't know if youtube may have a video that may help you or not but it may be worth a try to look and see or your local parts store may have a manual. Hope this helps

Firing order is 1-3-4-2 distributor rotates counter clockwise