Top 20 2003 Dodge Ram Maxi Questions & Answers

The heads can crack almost anywhere.

It should be on the fire wall !

Is the check engine light on ?

P0132 is O2 sensor High circuit sensor voltage sensor 1 bank1, What this mean is either you 02 sensor on bank1 (or where cylinder 1 is located) is disconnected internally or extenally you will need to inspect the harness for any disconnection if connection is good then you will need a new 02 sensor

P0300 is a random engine cylinder misfire occurring in all cylinders of the engine, it is non specific. This can be a programming problem with the powertrain control module (PCM) or a problem such as dirty fuel injectors or engine vacuum leaks in the intake gaskets, poor state of tune or worn engine parts like piston rings or valves. A bad tank of fuel can also cause this. You never mention the engine you have so my advice is general in nature and based on my 30 years as a tech..

A code P0440 could mean one or more of the following has happened:

• The gas cap is not installed or working properly
• The purge solenoid has failed
• The canister is plugged and not working properly

Take the car to Dodge automobile shop for repairs.

Not sure about your dodge, but on hondas there is a lever under the driver side vent to allow fresh(outside air) when its cold out, it will be cold, even with the heat on inside, so check to see if your has that lever somewhere on that side...hope that helps

If this is dual climate control, which I am sure that it is. Then the actuator for the driver side vents on the heater core is not working. It could be a bad actuator, or a bad controller. If it is a bad actuator then the actuator has to be replaced. It is located down by the passengers feet in the duct work. If it is the controller it is going to be more expensive. The controller is where you select where you want the air to blow (defrost, vent, or floor.)

If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired.
Heater Housing

• The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
• Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.

The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core. Heater Core

• Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
• Remove the heater coolant hoses.
• Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
• Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
• Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
• To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.

When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.

Eight...

2003 Dodge RAM 1500 5.7 liter Hemi V-8 VIN "D"



Dont forgetted rate this answerr. Good luck.

Try cycling your ignition switch from off to on (don't turn until it cranks, just turn to the on position where dash gauges, etc. light up. When you turn it to the on position, listen for the sound of your fuel pump runnig for a just a few seconds. This is how the fuel systems is kept pressurized for quicker starts without undue cranking.

Try this tactic for 7 or 8 times , one right after another....then try to start the car.

If the car starts OK after this exercise, I'd consider replacing the fuel filter.

If nothing changes, when you do get it started, check the running fuel pump pressure, also check the operation of the fuel pressure regulator.

Hope this is of some small degree of help.

sounds like the trucks computer no longer identifies with the chip in the key.
your best bet would be to have a automotive locksmith come out and re-program the key to the truck,, plus at the same time - get a spare key made so you have a back up.

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u need to open hood and there is a bolt to the rite that secures the lite frame--outside under the yellow lite theres another bolt

Replace the copper gasket or rubber brake hose,whatever is leaking.

the resitor operates ground, if theres no power then its a bad fuse under the hood in the power fusebox, or #10 fuse inside the leftside of dash, power for the blower comes from the ignition switch,double check all fuses,if you had no ground to blower then i would say the resistor,make sure you have a good ground on the test light, then check for power with key on again, heres a wiring diagram to help you, good luck.

no the other end is under th a/c alt. bracket you need to take the bracket off to get at the clamp

It sounds to me like it could be your alternator. Auto Zone has a free test that they can test it if you can get it off and take it to them. Hope this helps

May be a bad sending unit from the fuel tank.
You'll need a mechanic to tell you if that's the problem or something simple like a loose or broken wire.

The throttle position sensor should be located on the side of the throttle body or on the fuel injection pump. If it is one of the models on the throttle body it will be attached at the end of the throttle shaft. If the engine is setting code 24 and idles erratically that is the problem. If it is setting a different code tps is not the problem