20 Most Recent 1984 Dodge D150 Questions & Answers

Any shop that performs smog inspections will have that info.

Not difficult it's part of your positive wires inbound to dash... It's easy to rewire just be patient and find where the wires go/where they come from... The white wires are hot aka positive but all others are color coordinated in I'd say 8-9 colors. Most wires change colors from the cab back or cab to engine compartment and some are a pain by going into old school 1 to 3 wire connections. If you can't find it still or its missing pieces look up a junk yard and grab another couple used pieces for it. Also look at your light switch, bright light switch or grounds to even your tail lights... Sometimes even a stray branch on a back road will rip a wire loose if it's old and brittle

if the suspension is the same fittings , the drive line is the same and there is space under the car to put in the extra transmission and transfer case including the different rear cross member I consider the biggest problem will be the possible different diff ratio in the replacement front drive to the existing diff ratio in the existing rear end that you have They have to be the same of the problems you will have will not warrant the cost of repairs that will be needed after the change over consider getting a 4x4 of the same make as your vehicle and using your vehicle as spares to make up a good 4x4 rather than going your intended idea.

For the 1984 Dodge D150:
There was a 3.7L In-Line (Straight) 6-Cylinder but not a 3.8L 6-Cylinder

For the 3.7L In-Line 6-Cylinder:
Firing Order:
1-5-3-6-2-4

Cylinders:
(back)
|..6..|
|..5..|
|..4..|
|..3..|
|..2..|
|..1..|
(front)

Distributor:
..(back)
.....3
5........6
1........2
.....4
..(front)


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replace the ignition modual on teh firewall

You remove the pin and drive gear from the bottom of the shaft and it comes out the top of the distributor.

I would check your fusible links. The wires that they are on are what power everything in your cab. Usually they're attached to the starter, the starter solenoid, or the positive battery terminal. Hope this helps!

Bummer. Sometimes rebuilt starters are not actually rebuilt, but repaired. this means they fixed the issue, but did not replace bushings, brushes, etc...

try hooking up a wire to the actuater terminal of the starter (usually the small one at 2 o'clock position) and connect test light to it an ground the test light. Run this wire inside the cab so you can see it...When you turn to start, this light should light. Run vehicle until problem happens again and if the light illuminates, the focus is the starter, if it does not, you need to look at the entire circuit. Look carefully at neutral safety switch and connections..

You can get free one at auto zone just make an account for free

Need to check what the engine codes are first. You can use a scan tool or turn the key on and off three times in a row then leaving the key on the third time and the check engine light should flash. Count the flashes,(example: flashes two times and then three times thats code 23) or have a parts store scan it for free. Once you have a code it will put you in a direction on what system needs to be looked at.

Is the float sinking & causing a rich condition?Was it replaced during the rebuild or not set perthe rebuild kit instructions?

DId you actually price it at a Chrysler/Dodge dealer? Sometimes they are very reasonable as far as parts go.