20 Most Recent 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Fuel pump. I just pulled apart the dead fuel pump from my Astro today. Looking at the motor, it would have to land on one position only in order for it to have restarted as the brushes contacts on 3 of the 8 windings had worn down. Likely you could get the engine to fire if you used starting fluid, but it wouldn't stay running.

sounds like hydralic leak where your brake pads and shoes are located.

If your having charging issues replacing the alternator should fix it

I experienced almost the exact same thing in a customer's 1997 Dodge Caravan this week except on this one,the A/C would be blowing cold out of the vents,directly at you,and when you put the accellerator down pretty hard,the vents would cease to blow,but you could hear the defroster door flap,and the defrosters blew cold air.Let off the gas pedal,it switches back the way it originally was.Wasn't the customer's complaint,but it did make me wonder.

i dont play with litle white balls or any other golf games

loosen the screw or pull it to deired length and reapply it

go to modlife

Is the coolant topped off. Does the truck heat up to operating temp. Could be your thermostat

I recommend to go immediately to a car service station, since the check engine light could mean anything.

Faulty headlight switch.Replace the headlight switch and your problem should be solved.

dodges run like that. if your worried put a 180 degree thermostat in. maybe even a 160 . wont hurt engine or fuel mileage . my 99 dodge ram 1500 sport runs fine with 160 degree one. hope it helped , good luck

97.no spark from main coil.that means blown fuses.or bad ignitor.the tests are here (form URL your self)alldata dot com

need more info. check engine light on? could just need a tune up, evap leak etc...

I have a 97 ram 1500 with the same thing 45-50 OD kicks in and it would start bucking unless you turned off the overdrive and for me the problem was powerloss due to the injecters, i pulled them off and 2 were 100% clogged. if you clean your injecters be sure to sprey from the bottom to blow out the dirt/rust out of the top to be sure you are not just jamming everything further into the injecters, every easy fix took me a lil over a hour 4 bolts hold the injecter rail in and each injecter has a clip that holds them in after you remove the click carefuly turn the injecter side to side while pulling on them to remove from the fuel rail,then use a pick to pull out the large amout of dirt/rust out of the top of the injecters then you will need to use something to get power to the injecter to open it up, i took 2 pieces of wire with flat ends on then pluged the wires into the injecter the hooked the other side of the wire to the battery, if you do not hear a click sound when u hook to the battery then the injecter is bad, after you hear the click use a cleanning spay and spray from the bottom of the injecter so that the spray comes out the top, after all injecters are clean put them back on the motor, just to be sure all the rubber bushing are on the injecters there are 2 on each injecter 1top 1 bottom, i used a light amount of lube on the rubber seals to put them back in.took it for a test drive and had twice the power and the bucking had stopped. i hope this helps

You say it eventually allows you to put new fuse in, do you mean when it sits for a while, a new fuse won't blow, but if it blows and you immediately replace it, it blows again instantly?