20 Most Recent 1993 Dodge Ram 250 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

1993 Dodge Truck 250: the Fuel Filter is located under vehicle, driver side, below bed area, driver side of fuel tank, mounted on frame rail in fuel line.

Good luck.

Check for a vacuum hose under the hood that is bad,or not connected,this will be going into the firewall.

It's on the oil filter mounting area. It's either domed shaped, or you'll need a specialty socket to remove the one spade terminal kind. Advance Auto has loaner tools, so this may be easier than purchasing a socket from Snap-On, Mac or Matco. If you Can't identify your oil sending unit, then see if Advance Auto carries one (they all pretty much look the same on Chrysler Products and then you'll have a "View" of what you're looking for.

Good Luck,

~Stillin~

"Still Living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

It is possible you are correct. I would like to send you a wiring diagram. It does show a fuseable link on the black wire. First charge both of your batteries seperately and reinstall. Then make sure you have power to that wire when the key is on. The dark green wire is from the powertrain control module which is the one activating the field so it can charge. I can be reached at [email protected]

check your ground from the motor to the body or firewall of your truck or from your battery to your body or inner fender wall

first i put a new distributor on the motor, with new wires, made sure the distributor was lined up right, then i regapped the spark plugs. the last thing i did was check the gaskets around the heads, and replaced them. now it works better.

Remove a/c compressor and flop it out of your way.

probably the blower needs to be replaced, by the age of the vehicle i would think the motor is worn out.remove it and test.the only fuse is in the fuse block. the next possibility is the controls on your climate control console.

check all fuses to see if one is bad maybe more than one bad most of the time,,see if that help,, or could be a relay gone bad

Find out what is loose and replace it.

there is no real diagram for the conversion vans you only have stock diagrams because glaval or primetime usually took the shells and made thier own interiors and yes i have seen alot of issues with these its a wonder im not bald just have to use basic electricity for the add ons they are not actually chrysler supplied items yes you can get them from chrysler but they order them from the other 2 companies that convert the vans

Are you sure it is getting spark to the plugs? Did you check fuel pressure? It still may be getting some fuel but not enough. Is it fuel injected or car berated?

using dextron 3 in asystem designed for dex 2 will not have any detromental effects.Now using dex 2 in a system designed for dex 3 is not good.you can go up dex 2 to dex 3.NEVER use dex 2 in a systen designed for dex 3.There are several diffrent additives and many types have become synthetic so be careful.

Check for any vacumm leaks or broken hoses on the engine.

Use fuel line/injector cleaner this is a common problem. Also try higher octane gas for a tank or 2 and get her ou on the highway and blow he cobwebs outta he fuel system and exhaust

try all the major auto parts stores,like pepboys,autozone,advanced auto, & if not NAPA. All else fails,try the dealer ,if that fails try ebay.

Park van so that you can safely access the starter. I use ramps under front wheels and put it in park and set the parking brakes. Disconnect positive battery cable at battery, disconnect starter battery cable and ignition wires from starter solenoid (remember terminal locations as these will attach to new starter solenoid). Remove old starter. Replace with new starter. Re-attach wiring in reverse order.

If Im not mistaken.. One side of the computer is the voltage regulator.. Have ya put a new Alt on it? If so.. Its Probably the CPU.. lemmie know

The check engine light has nothing to do with the running lights on the vehicle. Chances are that the headlight switch has gone bad, good luck, Dont forget to rate.

Remove the old master cylinder. Use line wrenches to avoid damage to the brake line fittings. Bench bleed the the new master cylinder you have purchased. The parts store will tell you how to accomplish this and sell you the necessary bleed kit (note it may be included with the master cyl.). Carefully install the new master cylinder. Reconnect the brake lines and do not over tighten. Now with a helper, bleed the brake system. Start at the Right Rear wheel. Find the bleeder located on the back side of the wheel at the wheel cylinder. It should have a small rubber cap. Remove the cap and using a boxed in wrench, loosen the bleeder valve slightly while your helper is applying steady pressure to the brake pedal. The pedal will go to the floor and you will see and hear air bubbles come for the bleeder. Tighten the valve and then tell the helper to release the brake pedal and do it all over again. Keep doing this until no air appears. Periodically check the master cylinder and do not allow the fluid level to get too low as it will **** more air into the system. Remind you helper to never release the brake pedal until you give the OK. If he releases the pedal while the valve is open, air will be drawn into the system. Now after bleeding the RR wheel, move to the LR, then RF, and finish with the LF.