20 Most Recent 2004 Ford Freestar - Page 5 Questions & Answers

It should start in park and neutral .Their are safety switches to provident it from starting in gear. Like a clutch switch on a standard so you don't drive through your garage door . The part is called an interlock switch typically mounted on the drivers side of the transmission.Also depending on if it is cable or electronic operated .Also could be the switch in the muilty function switches that control the shifting at the steering column

Bad module in the door

Bad relay under the hood on pass side above the radiator it's a black box there are relays in there and your main power one is bad but will act like you can turn the key and nothing ?? Correct look in there switch the relays around I guarantee it will start regards Chris

Bad master switch on the drivers door replace with a different one and Blam your window will work

Pull it from the bottom it's way easier drop the cradle and lift the van up and over the engine

Easy there is a plastic panel that's about 2 inches by 2 inches pop that off and u can grab the cable with a needle nose pliers pull straight up and it will pop open

Here listen to this in terms u will understand now just turn the key to the on position but don't start it now hold down the trip button on the cluster and it will reset

Bad relay under the hood on the front above the radiator on the passenger side it is a black box about 6 inches long 4 inches wide there are relays in that box just switch them around and it will start

You need to replace the driver side temperature blend door actuator , electric motor that controls the temp .The instrument panel may need to be pulled out to replace it . You may want to take it to a qualified repair shop . As far as the rear blower motor , the motor could be bad or the auxiliary blower relay module , or the blower motor relay could be the problem . Without knowing component position in the vehicle you have a difficult time tracking down these parts .

P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1) The adaptive fuel strategy continuously monitors the fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a lean calibrated limit. Refer to Section 1 , Powertrain Control Software, Fuel Trim for more information. Fuel System.

• Fuel Pressure Regulator (vacuum hose off, diaphragm leak, malfunctioning).
• Leaking fuel injectors.
• Fuel return line restricted.
• Fuel rail pressure sensor (incorrect reading).
• EVAP canister purge valve leak (when canister is full).

Base engine.

• Engine oil contamination.

Air Measurement System.

• MAF sensor (contaminated, damaged, or corroded connector).

View Freeze Frame Data to determine the operating conditions when the DTC was set. Observe the LONGFT1 and LONGFT2 PID(s). Refer to Section 2 , Adaptive Fuel DTCs Diagnostic Techniques for more information.

All the windows are fused by just one fuse, if it goes all the windows stop working. You either have a defective driver door control switch or the window regulator motor is defective. I would think the motor inside the door that lifts the window is the issue here. You can verify it (window motor defective) by doing this simple test, at night open the door and leave it open, operate the driver door window switch and watch the interior lights (dome light in particular), they will dim just very slightly if the motor is defective, if they do not dim then the switch is likely the cause.

You can't reset the tire pressure warning light (TPMS), when the pressure is adjusted or the sensor replaced (if the warning is false) the light will go out, there is no reset. Check the air pressure in all the tires, they should be about 34 PSI all around.

The cable HOUSING has become loose from the anchor point. Get under with a hammer and a pliers and put back in place. Then persuade it to stay in place.

Nettie, If you have the dial/switch already set on the coldest setting and only cool, chances are the A/C refrigerant is low and needs recharged. have checked by a good tech. and they can determine if the A/C has a leak or just needs topped up. "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

maybe try this linkhttp://www.edmunds.com/ford/freestar/2004/consumer-discussions.html

Security lock would do nothing at all. If it is cranking, you have a problem.

There is obviously a switch on the fuel door that prevents the sliding door from operating while the fuel door is open. Look for that switch and spray some electrical cleaner (or even "Brake Kleen" from an auto parts store). Both evaporate quickly without leaving residue. The switch is probably "gunky."

Tells you in the owners manual.

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