You charge it at the smaller of the two AC lines from the compressor using a pressure gage, when the low side pressure is at 28-32 PSI the system is charged, I think you are overcharging the system which loads up the engine and causes it to slow down. CHECK THE LOW SIDE PRESSURE!
So your trunk release button on the dash dpesn't seem to open the trunk.Does your key fob button open the trunk? yes....then could be problem with switch but read on.no......are your power door locks not working as well. not working.....checkfuse, on 2001 Focus the fuse is a 20amp number 63 on the back of the fuse panel under the dash. Pop cover off and undue the rwo screws. hold plastic retainers and pull off the fuse panel from metal frame. pull fuse panel down toand turn over so you can see the fuse.check fuse. blown? yes.......replace fuse with good one. test all door locks open/close then check fuse...if its blown the problem is something to do with the door lock circuits. if the fuse is still ok...try pushing the trunk open button. fuse still ok? then I am a loss toas to whats the problem but if the fiuse blew when trying the trunk button your problem is the trunk latch circuit.Now if the trunk latch button is popping the fuse then disconnect wiring totrunk latch (in trunk) and try the button again. Still blowing the it is the electrical before the trunk latch unit. If it did now blow the problem is something to do with the part of the circuit you disconnected.How to go farther and find the problem exactly is not covered in this answer. You have to take it from here. JAG
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Check out 2001 Ford Focus Cloud 9 White Clearcoat ZTS Zetec FWD 4-Speed Automatic 2.0L I4
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i have replaced coil pack. wires plugs on a 2000 2.0 sohc ford focus..and it still has no fire.... motor just turns over.. 99'000 miles i had the timing belt and all replaced about 10'000 miles ago at ford dealer ship.... what might be my problem now crank sensor??? all fuses i checked they are all good.... it just spins no fire to plugs so it seems...
Hello, I have read about the Keyways in the crank and camshafts shearing off. If you disconnect the Battery and take out a sparkplug, you can turn the engine with a breaker bar. Then put a probe into the sparkplug hole and you should be able to feel the piston coming up in the cylinder. If the piston does not move you can start disassembling the front cover to check the Keyway on the crank.
If the pistons are moving. remove a Valve cover and turn the crank while watching the Valves or cam on the topside of the engine. This will give you an indication if the Cam is not turning. It is not impossible for a Cam to snap so watch to see if all parts the entire length of the cam are turning.
Another potential problem much easier to fix is the Starter bendix. If you only hear the Starter cranking without a load, was the engine turning? The Starter gear could fail and the starter will just spin while the engine does nothing.
Would be interested in the outcome of this problem.
CODE ???? If you would like help need to know what code ? P0172 ?
Using a scan tool an checking scan data would be the first thing to do , before replacing parts ! That's a rookie move. What are the fuel trims at ? is the PCM adding ,taking away fuel ? Are the O2 sensors switching rich to lean like thier suppose to. Using a better scan tool an looking at data , an freeze frame data .
003 Freeze Frame and Conclusion009 Testing DCTs
You could have leaking injectors , clogged air filter , bad fuel pressure regulator , mass air flow sensor bad . You wan't fix cars , learn how.
o2 sensory ???? ha ha ha lol . it's O2 sensor
Suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop . Because you have no clue .
I won't change the fuel pump without testing ! An this guy is just guessing . Suppose you listen to that dude an that doesn't fix the problem ! Test don't guess .
Testing Electric Fuel Pump Problems with Voltage Drop Test
It could die because of a lot of thing's , relays , sensors , engine computer , loose ground connection .
Back in the 80's I had a ford maverick with similar problems. The relays were on the wheel well. It was by luck I bumped the relay and it was very hot. Next time it shuts down check the temp on the relays. If one is real hot that may be you problem. My neighbor had a similar problem with a blazer she thought it was the fuel pump. Before I changed the fuel pump for her I swapped the A/C relay with the fuel pump relay(they were the same relay) . She live there about 6 months before moving and to my knowledge she never had the problem. I agree with you I think it is something to do with electrical and overheating is a sign of a problem.
free pdf repair manual ford focus copy and paste into search line http://www.allcarmanuals.com/factory-service-manual-146-Ford-Focus.htmlmy guess oil changer spilt the oil filling the motor up and it ran on to the exhaust if rocker cover gasket isnt leaking oil smell will go away after engine gets up to temp degreased the engine bay with something cheap then hosed it down with a hose and water went everywhere firing order for 4 cyl typical is 1342the leads will be to length from dissy so its hard to mess up water may have condensed under the dissy cap or coil plug wires arcing in the spark plug tubes all needs to be dried out a dry rag or metho not wd 40 car should run ok after the engine bay is dry
componet located directly behind the tank ? evap canister ! Do you know how to test automotive electrical ? How to read an use a electrical wiring diagram ? Use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Do you know what a FPDM is fuel pump driver module (computer) Your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop or dealer ?
Ford Electronic Returnless Fuel System Diagnosis Part 1 Ford