2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ford had a problem with the cam shaft sensor located on passenger side of engine on crank shaft thois will cause the engine to shut down.

Hi I'm Peter, You have your work cut out for you it's not that it's that difficult it's just awkward to handle unless you have a transmission jack or even a rolling jack and a board to lay across it to support the tank. You will have two bands holding the tank up and your filler tube that goes in the side top area. First it would be great if you can get as much of the fuel out of the tank as possible because trying to work with the tank full is near next to impossible. If you can have an extra person to help it will make life easier and safer for you. Once the tank is emptied then put the jack under the tank to support it. Some tanks will have a mud or rock shield covering them so you will have to deal with that also. If you don't have that great less work. Once the tank is supported loosen the nuts on the tank supporting straps. Then you will have to lower the tank some to where you can reach up between the tank and the side of the bed of the truck to where the filler tube is. You will have a large hose clamp on a rubber hose that goes between your filler spout and the filler tube loosen it and work the rubber line off sometimes you may have to get a screw driver being careful not to damage the rubber tube and break the seal where it has stuck to the pipe then you can slide it off. Now that is out of the way you will need to remove your fuel lines and you will most likely need the special fuel line connector release tool to do that . They are just a few bucks at the parts store make sure you get one for a ford fuel line different makes have different locks. Oh yes it may hep also if you have fuel injection to relieve the fuel pressure up on the fuel rail by removing the black plastic cap and as you hold a rag over it to catch any fuel spraying out depress the needle valve on the relief on the fuel rail just like you would let the air out of a tire. Back to the lines now remove the lines it will be easier and less mess. You will nee to disconnect the wiring that is plugged into the fuel pump mounted in the top of the tank. Don't forget there should be a ground wire you will need to disconnect also. Take a good light and make sure you have everything loose. You will most likely have to drop the back end of the tank first then as you lower the jack slide the tank past the exhaust and drive shaft. Sometimes it's a tight fit and this is why it's good to have an empty tank. There have been times where I have had to depending on the setup taken the exhaust hanger loose where I could swing the exhaust pipe over for the tank to clear. Drag the tank out I'm trying to remember on the ford if it is a locking ring or bolts that hold the pump in but if it is a locking ring you will see a little tang sticking up take a flathead screwdriver and a soft mallet and tap the ring around until it is loose. You should then be able to lift the fuel pump up out of the tank. You will have to turn the pump at an angle for the float level arm to clear but it will come out pretty easy. While you have the pump out I would recommend cleaning out the old tank turn it over and empty the contents into a bucket catch pan or what ever. I usually get some paper towels and wrap around a coat hanger or what ever I can get and wipe the inside of the tank out really well. I would say wash it out with a good cleaner then dry it but unless you are very careful you would leave water in the tank. Even when I've dome that I have stood the tanks up and ran an air hose in them to dry them out completely in extreme cases. Putting it back in is just a simple process of reversing the steps making sure where the pump mounts is clean you put the gasket on and you get the lock ring completely turn to it's locked position. test pull the fuel lines when you push them back on they should just snap back into place. Don't forget to make sure all electrical connections are seated till you hear or feel the click. Put it all back up and remember turn the key on till you hear the pump stop then try starting the engine it may take a little bit to burp all of the air out . Also if you go to all this trouble make sure you put on a brand new filter even if you just put one on when you were trying to get the truck going before because the new filter you just had put on is now full of the junk that was in your tank so let's start with everything new and clean to prevent any headaches. Good luck take your time and it won't be too bad . I've done many by myself.

Check your ball-joints. There are pros and cons to guessing different components. What I visualize is that you have low motion noise{slow approach to parking spot) and noise going over rough roads(no clutch, no braking). There was a recall on some gas tank straps, which a rough road could reveal, but it would not affect going into a parking spot. Check rear leaf springs for cracked leafs. The truck body settles when parking and driving motion could make broken leaf spring chirp. Check motor mounts. The exhaust pipes and joints in what is called the "donut" can chirp if the tailpipes are rigid and the engine moves on bad mounts. The donut becomes the only flexible connection in the exhaust system.

Hi Kelly Ann- Curious: Does your car's starter work? I've heard where a bad starter can develop a slight short which will draw down the power stored in your battery. They can test this using a volt meter. If your car is shut off, and no accessories are on (like headlights) there should be no draw from your battery and charging system so the volt meter should show no connectivity (current). If there is a short (somewhere), the meter will show connectivity/current running. With the car not running, the alternator can not charge your battery and eventually the battery will die out. Ask the shop how they determined it's your starter. I'm sure they will offer this explanation.

Greetings: My 97 F 250 has the aluminum wheels. The Aluminum of the rims actually becomes welded to the steel hubs after some time. I have beat on those things with various types of hammers and blocks. I've put a 6' length of 2" pipe between the shackles and wheel in an attempt to pry it of. Tires just absorb all the energy. After hours of frustration I figured out that a standard digging bar will fit between the drum and the wheel. It is tight, but it will fit. Popped both rims off in just a couple of minutes this way. Pry it till it moves, spin the wheel a bit and pry again. You will have to work it all the way around the wheel, but it will come off.

First of all the first time they replaced the fuse they should have found out WHY it blew in the first place. They dropped the ball on you . Sorry you had to blow so much cash and having such a hard time.. First thing I want you to do is , and it will sound dumb but just humor me, sit down and try to think about every time it blew. What was going on , what were you doing at that EXACT moment, was it sunny or raining. What EXACT fuse is it and where is it located? What we are looking for is a common factor. How much time between them blowing a little while later to you may be two weeks where to me it would be an hour or so. See here is how we find out, we become detectives that's why most guys will never make it as a good mechanics and they will always be parts changers, figure out WHY did it fail and try to fix the problem not the result. When you stat the vehicle did the starter drag some? If it is an alternator related area problem a common thing to happen is for the wires to rub against something or lay against hot exhaust exposing the bare wires to the metal of the engine/frame. This could cause it to short and blow the fuse at different times. Say you went across Railroad crossings and pow it blew. The vibration shook the wires and they made contact shorted and blew the fuse, Rained a lot you went through some deep water and it splashed up made the connection .....blown fuse. Same thing with the battery hot wires you mentioned you had batteries changed. Think about it a MONTH later the fuse blew. I would start looking from the batteries on following the hot wires to see if somewhere they were touching something or loose. See there just sitting here running my mouth and we have a place to start. Batteries hot wires tracing them. You said batteries, so you will have to have a regulating device between the two to allow for equal charging, check all the connection and feel to see if the box or any of the wires seem hotter than anything else. Fuses blow because of the amount of electromotive force (AMPS are greater than the fuse can handle so they get hot and burn into. When they put the new batteries in maybe they moved the hot wire in a position that was further from the point it was grounding to but now because of a months worth of vibration they have slid right up next to the ground and ZAP . Hope you found something in what I mentioned just don't give up . Let me know what you find. Also check the owners manual to be sure the correct size fuse is in there to begin with. Good Luck

Was there any recent work performed on this truck? The symptoms described an issue with either tires, steering components, or drive-train components. Take a look at the tires and look for a bubble in the tread or sidewall, irregular tread wear (cupping), or a bent/damaged rim. After that, take a look at the steering components. Consisting of the wheel bearings, ball-joints, tie-rods, drag-link, and pitman arm. And then I would take a look at the drive-shaft. Chock the wheels, (so it doesn't move) Shift the transmission into neutral, release the brake, and then shift back into park (this will insure that the drive-shaft is free from resistance). Inspect the drive-shaft and look for excessive play at the U-joints and the yokes. Also look for rust trails coming from the U-joint end-caps. Rust trails indicate a failure and it will need to be repaired. Please write back. I'd like to see how you are making out, good luck.

This all has to tie into one relay or fuse. If that is not it then I would check your body computer.

water in your fuel pump .or dirty fuel filter.

More likely a switch problem. If light is supposed to come on automatic with hood up, it is a mercury switch-turns on when in an upraised or different position. You could try replacing that switch, or put in a simple on-off switch, like a toggle switch, in its place. It would not likely be a separate fuse, but in same circuit as interior lights. Check if the wire in the hood has power-it should be hot at all times. If you have power going to the mercury switch, the switch is bad.

There's a galley plug behind the accessory mounting bracket in the head this plug has a large O-ring that goes bad needs to be replaced. This galley supply's oil to the injectors and is under high pressure when running. It will make a mess when you replace it and it is a lot of work to get all the stuff off to get to it probably should do the one on the other side while your at it. Also this will make the truck hard to start (gas on a rag will make it start easier either is too unpredictable) after the repair and run rough for a little while as you will be introducing air into the system it will work itself out after a good drive. I believe the plug has a 1/2 inch square drive hole in it.

Passenger side air bag circuit. Have had harness and resistor problems. Will need further diagnostics

Try doing a flush and refill of the hydraulic pump AND the left-right cylinders. The voltage drop is normal whenever the plow pump is straining.

10 amp fuse labeled instrument cluster also protects idle sensor on diesel models

switch on steering wheel or cruise control unit, more likely the switch. and cheaper too.

There is one a third of the way up behind a plastic cover that pops out and the other is beside the handle.

There are only two bolts holding the doors panels on. There is one about a third of the way up the door and one beside the handle. You will have to pop the window switches and locks out. If its a front door you will have to pop off the panel that runs up the window also. After the bolts are out you just pick up on the panel. Once it is removed you can manually lock and unlock no matter whether its electronic or not. Once you find out what is causing it to bind you should clean it up as best as possible. If its electric your probably needing a new soleniode.

Have you checked the function of the fog lamp relay ?

Have you had the alternator tested to see if it is producing enough power to keep the battery charged ?

try changeing flasher usually in fuse box. if this was helpful please leave good feedback