Top 20 1999 Ford F350 Regular Cab Questions & Answers

Have your alternator checked. I had a Lincoln that had the odometer and speedometer recording at a stop. Turns out it was stray voltage from alternator traveling through my chassis.

Look for a broken wire inside the rubber boots from the body to the doors .

Injector pump seals most likely. If they have never been changed,CHANGE THEM NOW! One is HARD to change,make sure they change that one too and not just the easy ones. 2nd most common leak there is the return fuel lines between the injectors. That should do it.

Try this: Google images for 1999 Ford F350 hydraulic clutch slave bleed screw.

The problem you have I believe it is the cam sensor.....Low coolant level will cause the same failure ...If coolant isn't touching sensor which is located in the coolant reservoir...when coolant sloshes up and down while driving it will cause this to happen intermittently..Or the coolant sensor is just faulty...If it was fuel related it shouldn't crank at all...The best thing to do is have a dealership scan the system for faults rather than use a cheap scanner."..You can also check to see if there are any recalls....Check wiring for loose connections..also sometimes the negative battery cable will definitely cause this...It will become loose and the vibration will make it happen..and contamination. .".So check battery cables,coolant sensor wiring,and wiring at cam sensor which is located at front of engine behind fan ...If all cables,wiring and coolant level are good take it and have it scanned...Also check oil level...Hope this helps...I would call dealer first and ask about cam sensor recalls..,Then make an appointment..If it is a recall they will take their time and do all money making jobs before yours ...I know because I work at a dealership...They don't make any money for recalls...Good luck...Brooks...

You have a short in the ignition system.

There are two large terminals One terminal will be just a nut on a bolt and the other will have a wire under the nut that goes down into the starter. The batter wire goes on the one that just has the nut. If you put it on the other one the starter will spin immediately as you are supplying power to the armature direct and by passing the solenoid.

It sounds like an electrical problem in wiring?? This would be hard to troubleshoot with out having Hands On. If you are interested in having it checked out and repaired, I would be glad to diagnose it for you, my shop is in Cleveland Al 205-625-5679

Got fuel? Sounds crazy but you'd be surprised how many times I have poured a gallon of gasoline into someones car to get it to start. No start condition is the most frustrating problem. More information on what happens when you turn the key would help......but basicaly you need 4 things to make a car start. Fuel. Air. Spark. Timing. Fuel, Air, Spark and Timing are needed to start/run. Asked about fuel, but is the fuel getting to the cylinder? Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail(s)? When you turn the key to the "On" or "Run" position, do you hear a whining sound coming from the rear (fuel tank area)? That is your fuel pump priming the system. No sound? Check fuses and relays associated with the fuel system. Air. You need air to the cylinder to make it start and run. Check your air intake and filter. Really clogged and dirty filter? Pull it out and try to start. No go? Put it back (change ASAP) and look for Spark. Spark includes battery. Are there any loose connections to/from your battery? Really corroded terminals? Clean and tighten the connections. Try to start. No go? Pull the spark plug wire off an easily accessible spark plug (grasp the "boot" as close to the plug as possible and wiggle back and forth easily while pulling - these boots and wire connectors are fairly delicate). Remove the spark plug (be careful and dont break it or cross thread it when putting back in) and pop the wire back on it and set the plug on top of your engine (away from the spark plug hole). Have someone try to start the engine. You should see the spark plug fire its tiny bright blue spark. If not, you have found your problem. The problem is likely a bad coil, bad coil wire, distributor cap, rotor or a combination of these. If you have spark, then it has come down to timing. There are lots of things that affect timing in modern cars. There are a couple of sensors that jump out - Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors. These will generally quit working while driving and you will likely notice the problem beforehand with it running really rough and getting crappy mileage, and the check engine light will come on and give you all kinds of hints. IF you turn the key and nothing happens, it might be a broken timing belt, but again, those usually fail under working conditions. It is possible (rare) the timing belt slipped/broke when you last shut off the engine, but I would point at the other 3 things first (Fuel, Air & Spark). Hope this helps. Good luck.

What this means is the PCM has lost some of its programming or there were aftermarket performance parts added to the truck. The electrical values have changed for some reason.The PCM will need to be reflashed. If it drops the instructions agin the PCM will need to be replaced.

I don't know personally but computer controlled engines have a bridge point that isolates the timing advance you must bridge this wire to time it or you have to time it visually with the engine stopped, once started the computer will always do what it wants

Sounds like you may be low on clutch fluid. Check the reservoir under the hood in the engine compartment and fill if necessary, then you will want to pump the clutch several times to regain hydraulic pressure to the pressure plate. Make sure that the emergency brake is set and that the vehicle is in neutral. You may have a faulty slave cylinder if you have to add fluid to the clutch reservoir. I hope that you have found this information to be useful, and if I can be of any further assistance, please let me know. Thank you for using fixya!

sounds like a vacum leak or the throttle position sensor im not 100 percent sure but that what it sounds like to me

you should check the coil pack check for cracks and test it

The fuel pressure sounds too low. Is it multi-port injection? Check the fuel pressure against your specs for the car and engine. MPFI systems usually require 40-50 psi.

If the 15amp fuse marked number 4 has power, you should have power into the headlight switch and then out to the lights.

Click on link to see timing marks.

SOUNDS LIKE A VOLTAGE REGULATOR PROBLEM. SOME VEHICLES HAVE AN INTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR INSIDE THE ALTERNATOR.

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems ca cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms

start with one quart