Top 10 1997 Dodge Neon Questions & Answers

motor vehicle technician for this job,not a weekend mechanic job

Solution: Maybe.

Rear main seal is probably the problem.

My 1997 Dodge Neon has this same problem. My father-in-law (who used to be a mechanic) checked the car for me and found the rear main seal needs replacing.

SEScott1217

I do not have good news for you.
According to the Gates Timing Belt guide 2002 Edition, both engines offered in the Dodge Neon are interference engines.
This means that your engine has likely sustained sgnificant valve, cylinder head or even piston damage. Have you tested the compression?
It is probably least expensive to buy a used engine, change its timing belt and replace your engine with that one.

YOU NEED TO CHECK DARK GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT IGNITION COIL WHEN CRANKING ENGINE FOR POWER..IF NO POWER,SHUTDOWN RELAY IS NOT BEING ENERGIZED..THIS ENGINE ALSO HAS CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ON END OF CYLINDER HEAD..ENGINE CONTROLLER NEEDS CAM AND CRANK SIGNALS TO ENERGIZE THE SHUTDOWN RELAY..UNPLUG CRANK SENSOR AND CHECK VOLTAGE ON ORANGE WIRE..SHOULD HAVE APPROX 8V..IF NOT..UNPLUG CAM SENSOR AND SEE IF 8V SUPPLY RETURNS..IF NO POWER TRY UNPLUGGING VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOCATED IN TRANS HOUSING WHERE RIGHT SIDE AXLE COMES OUT OF TRANS..IF 8V RETURNS..THE SPEED SENSOR IS SHORTED INTERNALLY..THESE 3 SENSORS SHARE THE SAME 8V SUPPLY CIRCUIT..WITH SPEED SENSOR UNPLUGGED,PLUG CRANK SENSOR BACK IN AND TRY TO START ENGINE..HAVE SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM AT WORK RECENTLY

They are separate.
Go to this web site for excellent instructions on how to change them. There are many illustrations. http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=337657
There are also factory pre-made lines from the dealer for $20 for the pair. They were part of a recall and the cost is very low. I just installed them. Get the part numbers at the web site above.
Joe

hi,
stick a standard droplight with a 75 or 100 watt incandescent(regular) bulb under the cars engine, on the ground for a day or overnight.
jm

Your Starter Relay, located in the Relay/Fuse Box/Panel is sticking and causing the Starter "Run-On".
Locate the Starter Relay in the Relay/Fuse Box/Panel.
The identification and location of the Relays/Fuses should be located in your Owners Manual, or on the inside rear Cover.
There are usually Relays in the Box/Panel which are the same Type (size and shape). Switch out the suspected bad Starter Relay with another non-engine Relay that is KNOWN to work.
Recheck the operations of both these functions.
If the Starter is not still experiencing "Run-On" and the other function is now malfunctioning. The suspected Relay is bad and needs to be replaced.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

The main fuse block on these vehicles is located on the left side of the dash, behind an access panel. These is also a Power Distribution Center (PDC) which can be found under the hood.
Each fuse block uses miniature fuses which are designed for increased circuit protection and greater reliability. The compact fuse is a blade terminal design which allows easy pull-out/push-in removal and replacement.



Fig. 1: Most fuse block covers have a label which identifies the fuses


For the "shut off", check this "inspection guide"...



Hope help with this.

Does the car have drums or disc brakes on the rear? If it has drums then the handbrake lever may not be releasing on the rear shoe itself or a spring or brake lining could have let go and got jammed. If the handbrake lever is the problem then removing the wheel and striking the drum with a large ball peen hammer should release it (may be barbaric but it works), this will not solve the problem the brakes would have to be removed and serviced or replaced depending on the problem. If the vehicle however has disc brakes on the rear then the caliper on that wheel may have become stuck or seized, normally they are replaced nowadays if this occurs since rebuild kits are not readily available. Still with disc brakes could also have stuck pad in its guide on the bracket, although much less likely, also tends to be less costly since you only have to remove and clean it up (rust, etc). If the handbrake is inside the rotor (internal drum), then you could have a problem with the shoes or lever releasing inside the rotor (depending on the setup on the rear). As well if it were not brakes in very, very rare occasions a wheel bearing could lock up, not very likely though. hope this will help you good luck

Hello, If it just cranks and not starting at all can be several things to look at. A engine to run needs fuel, spark, compression, air. BUT here is what I would first do, if you check to see if you have spark, and fuel, most likely it could be the crank sensor. If no codes come up on dash. There is so many things it could be. Just take one step at a time. See if your getting fuel, if you smell fuel, like flooded, then its getting fuel, otherwise could be fuel pump not working, If pulling a plug and keep it in plug sleeve and set next to medal screw on block, and have someone turn key, to see if you see spark. If spark then getting spark, Then were back to a couple things.... Crank sensor went out, that will cause to crank and not start, if cam sensor went out, it would still run, but just like ****. Next if still cranks and wont start, could be the timing chain missed a slot, which means could of bent a valve or stuck valve. Dont panic yet, just like I said start with first and always fuel, and also dont forget fuse panel for fuel relay fuse or fuel pump fuse to see if good. Keep me posted as i will try and help you along the way, Mike