20 Most Recent 1996 Dodge Neon - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Check your fuses. I had the same problem with a 90 Honda civic. Dash lights went out, tail lights also went out. Replaced 1 fuse and all came back on.

for your dome light, one of the door switches is shorted, replace or remove. how is the fuel pressure ?

sounds like a cable that has been snapped

hello there and welcome to fixya normally if you have checked all of the fuses under the hood and the ones under the dash the most common problem lies in the speed sensor that is attached to the transmissionit should look like this ok it has 1 bold that holds it in place simply remove the wires from the unit then remove the 8 or 10 mm bold and replace the part it costs around 35 dollars at any autozone ok Hope this helps please keep me posted on how this is going best regards mike

It is located on the firewall side of the engine block, passenger side, under the power steering pump. Unplug the electrical connector on the crankshaft sensor by lifting the plastic lock tab and pulling it off.

2Remove the 10 mm bolt that secures the sensor to the block, using a socket. The bolt is in the hold down bracket. Twist the sensor to ease removal.

3Insert the new sensor after checking to make sure that the O-ring is installed to prevent oil leaks and the spacer that comes with the sensor did not fall off. Insert the sensor and give it a little twisting motion as it is installed. Align the hole in the hold down bracket and insert the 10 mm bolt and tighten with a socket. Plug in the electrical connector.

If you mean the check engine light is on when the engine is running, I would start there and have the computer scanned for trouble codes.Without knowing what is shutting down it will be tough to troubleshoot.Could be a relay or coil or any number of other things.If there are no codes in the computer, I would look for a failing relay. A sensor should set a code.

Hello

The Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

I am sorry we do not have the manuals to look this up. Any auto salvage yard can supply this info from a cross reference book they all have.

remove interior door panel check wirer rod clips reinstall wirer rod If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mike_9693b5ad75773352

You either have a gas leak or a thief. Check the gas lines that run under the car and the connections under the hood

The first thing I would look at is air flow, both in and out.If you have a restriction in the intake, or exhaust, the engine will not perform well. Air filter, intake hose, catalytic converter, and so on.I assume the check engine light is not on when you are driving ?

Does the light work when you first turn the key? Does it come on? Check your ignition wires for arching also make sure you don't have a pool of oil in the spark plug tubes.

The tank itself IS easy to replace. Two nuts and its off. The hard part is getting your hands (and tools) on it to remove it.You should remove the air box to give you some room to get it out. it will also give you more room to get your hands and tools on it.If you have power steering (and you probably do), then the reservoir will be your biggest PITA to get around as it sits directly in front of the tank with about 1 inch of clearance. If you can get your tools on the nuts and still turn them, you will be golden. If not, then you MAY want to consider removing the three bolts that hold the power steering fluid reservior on so that you can shift it out of the way, BUT, and this is a very big BUT, those three bolts are also EXTREMELY difficult to reach AND put back in, so I would strongly suggest that if you do that, be prepared for some major aggravation.

If just the headlights flash, the circuit breaker inside the switch is failing or something is drawing too much current.

Sounds like ground problems to me. I would check all engine grounds and see if that takes care of the problem (something grounding THROUGH the wiper motor because it has a bad ground where it is supposed to be getting ground from).For a small anual fee, you can subscribe to all of the service information for your vehicle at alldatadiy.com. By doing that, you will have access to all of the PROFESSIONAL service information that I would use to diagnose and repair your vehicle if you were to bring it to my shop for repair. I would start by looking at the "Ground Distribution" diagrams and look up all of the ground locations and verify that all are clean and tight. There are also several "splice blocks" that are involved in your electrical ground system. These diagrams will show you where these are located so they can be properly inspected.Personally, I would check all of those attached to the engine and transmission FIRST. One of them may have been left disconnected or loose during the previous repairs you mentioned.