Top 20 2003 Buick Regal Questions & Answers

Test the ground wire strap. Run a ground wire from battery to ground on the ignition and see if that’s the problem.

hi heartysoup2. go to this link and you might find something might help you with this. 2003 Buick Regal loss of power and the car just stopped Google Search

Since these lights will work auto or manual is there a relay that might be bad. You mean these light's won't work auto or manual ???? Did you check the TAIL LAMP LIC LAMP fuse 15 amp . ? Located in the right I/P fuse panel open passenger door plastic panel end of the I/P pull ,fuse box behind . This fuse takes care of the thing's your having problems with

Remove the door panel and unplug the connector to the door actuator. Probe the contacts with a voltmeter set on DC volts. Then operate the lock/unlock switch. You should see the voltage toggle from +12 volts to -12 volts. If you do, then the wiring, switch and connector are good and you have a bad actuator. Be prepared to start replacing all of them because they all operate the same number of cycles.

There is a reason, and testing will reveal that.

3.8 engine below at back under an alternator.

Inside the transmission

2003 BUICK RENDEZVOUS REPAIR MANUAL for the easy solution download the pdf file

Check for a low battery or bad or corroded connections.

Blown fuse?

Inside the alternator.

Remove the tire and inner fender well. You will see the nuts/bolt to remove. You also have to remove the screws for the plastic piece inside the door.

This site may help. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/ & http://newrockies.com/

on steering columb

Do you notice any check engine lights coming on the dash when this happens, also has the vehicle had any recent repairs or any reason why this may be happening? Any input from you is helpful. I will check my resources and see what we can find out. Please advise

If you had a emissions problem and it has been corrected and the check light is out, then it should be cleared after 200 miles.Or will just show is a inactive fault

When you said "it wouldn't start" did it turn over (starter cranking the engine) or did it act like the battery was dead and wouldn't crank, even though all the dash lights lit up? If it simply didn't crank over but then by you shifting it out of park, then back into park, may indicate a park/neutral switch problem. It may have been something as simple as the shifter, when the vehicle was last parked, didn't fully engage the park/neutral switch into the park position. BUT by you moving the shifter out and back into park it engaged the switch. Cold weather can do some strange things sometimes when it comes to mechanical devices. IF it acts up again, simply try the "trick" that worked the last time. It may just be temperature related and may not give any more problems once the weather warms up. Hope this helps.

There will be panels in the trunk near the rear lights. Remove the panel closest to the light you need to check. Hope this helps.

Check coolant temp sensor. If bad, it will make computer think the engine is still cold, causing excessive fuel delivery and flooding. These sensors can be removed and tested (see instructions in shop manual)

P0139 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2) - Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection - Inappropriate fuel pressure - Faulty fuel injectors - Intake air leaks may be faulty - Exhaust gas leaks Best advice check it out first! DO NOT Shotgun it as in replace things until it works. You are blowing money at that point.