20 Most Recent 2003 Buick Regal - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Do you notice any check engine lights coming on the dash when this happens, also has the vehicle had any recent repairs or any reason why this may be happening? Any input from you is helpful. I will check my resources and see what we can find out. Please advise

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Yes, you are running hot from leaking all your coolant out. No one can tell you where it is leaking without looking at it. Could be a hose leaking, the radiator, a bad head gasket or intake gasket, the water pump...if coolant is leaking from the front of the engine, that could be the water pump or radiator hose or a water pump gasket. Pretty common for the water pump to leak when it is worn out, that's how you know when to change it.When you fill the radiator and overflow tank back up to full, does the engine still run hot? If it does, I would not advise running it-have a shop diagnose it before more serious damage occurs. Head gasket repairs can get very expensive-that is the danger you are facing, and if the head gasket has already gone bad from overheating, continued running of the engine can cause you to have to replace the engine. Overheating is a major cause of early engine failure.Try to determine where the leak is, from where it drips off the engine. The coolant constantly circulates from the engine to the radiator and back into the engine. The heater hoses circulate coolant from the engine to the heater core in the heater case and back into the engine. Besides the overflow tank, these are the only places coolant would be on the car. The engine can leak coolant from a lot of places, but if leaking to the outside, you should be able to spot where it is coming from. Good luck.

on steering columb

There will be panels in the trunk near the rear lights. Remove the panel closest to the light you need to check. Hope this helps.

Open passenger side front door it's on the end of the dash.

Open passenger front door and it's right on the end of the dash.

It is working but the display is not. There are resistors on the circuit board that get loose over time. Go to www.regalgs.org and search cluster repair fix. Sometimes reflowing the solder works but sometimes you have to replace the resistors. Your driver information center and the electronic climate control go out too.

When you said "it wouldn't start" did it turn over (starter cranking the engine) or did it act like the battery was dead and wouldn't crank, even though all the dash lights lit up? If it simply didn't crank over but then by you shifting it out of park, then back into park, may indicate a park/neutral switch problem. It may have been something as simple as the shifter, when the vehicle was last parked, didn't fully engage the park/neutral switch into the park position. BUT by you moving the shifter out and back into park it engaged the switch. Cold weather can do some strange things sometimes when it comes to mechanical devices. IF it acts up again, simply try the "trick" that worked the last time. It may just be temperature related and may not give any more problems once the weather warms up. Hope this helps.

Could be rust.

P0139 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2) - Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection - Inappropriate fuel pressure - Faulty fuel injectors - Intake air leaks may be faulty - Exhaust gas leaks Best advice check it out first! DO NOT Shotgun it as in replace things until it works. You are blowing money at that point.

Check coolant temp sensor. If bad, it will make computer think the engine is still cold, causing excessive fuel delivery and flooding. These sensors can be removed and tested (see instructions in shop manual)

if the light is on its because you have a problem on the system need to scann and fix before reseting

check all your fuses sounds like a fuse that went bad hope this helps

Low on fluid. Possibly vacuum modulator out of adjustment. You can also check the kickdown adjustment on the throttle assembly. Good luck! I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_24775b73ca70da93

Lock tumblers may be worn out,, or key may just have a sharp edge or burr on it,, ( if you recently got a key makde ) work it out if you can and have the shop the cut the key run it on the deburring wheel again

This is an indication of insufficient current available to run all the systems . Go back to basics and clean the battery terminals and posts and ensure that they are tight. Have a load test done on the battery because if you have a failing battery (won't crank) then the alternator charge will be feeding that cell and not the electrics of the car. Have an accredited auto electrician check the alternator for serviceability. Lastly check the condition and tension of the drive belt.

The steering wheel can be in a bind to prevent the park lever from moving. Try working the steering wheel at the same time you try to move the shift stick. My mother-in-law had the very same problem.

Sometimes it is due to the steering lock. Try and turn the steering wheel slightly to the left or right and see if that allows the key to turn. If it doesn't then most likely the ignition switch will need to be replaced.