1986 Chevrolet C1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

there has to be a wire from the coil to the distributor to the points inside the distributor if it has points , check that they are not shorted out and that the moving point is insulated from the distributor plate check for a condenser attached to the moving point and fixed to the distributor body if it has an electronic system , it could be a problem igniter unit in the distributor

need check ignition module see good power or ground to it and possibly replace if bad

Cam gear and crank gear have dots on them ,,,, put the gear dot to dot,, one pointing at the other,,,then remove number 1 plug ,,driverside front plug,,,,hold your finger over plug hole tight till the air blows out hole ,,, your close now to the conpression stroke,of number one plug, use a socket on crank shaft center bolt to move the crank,,,have some one turn it with hand to get the piston to up to the top of the hole,, right to the top,,, now get the distributor and get the rotor button pointed strait at the number 1 spark plug hole,,,your oil pump rod slit will need to align to ,,, look in distributor hole and use long screw driver or tire tool to turn the oil pump rod, needs to point at ,,line up with,,,,number one to,,, or real close,,,,,, make sure the disbributor goes all the way down and sits flush on block,,,,make sure vac advance is in 8 oclock position or close,,,,if you get it to go down but its not pointing just right move the plug wires to make number one plug where the rotor button is pointing on cap,,,,should be ggod to go,,,,

Is that a statement or a question? How can the crankshaft itself determine if it is placed in a 2 or 4 bolt main block?

the pinion gear is not in correct mesh with the crown wheel. It is not just a case of throwing parts in and putting it together but the correct mesh and preload of the crown wheel and pinion and the bearings has to be obtained . There are plenty of chevy workshop manuals that tell you how to get it right as the diff set up is constant across the range.

could be starving for fuel or air, trans could be problem also.could also be any number of small electronic parts causing it. start by replacing air and fuel filters. if no change then have it diagnosed by the computer....

try a spring inside the hose that is collapsing...assuming of course they are all routed properly and thermostat is installed correctly

hose?seal?

The HEI has nothing to do with the alternatorThe HEI needs battery voltage,not the resistor,that was there for the point ignition distributorUnless you moved wires around to feed the HEI,you just diagnose the alternator as usualNew doesn't mean it worksHave to know how to test it

Not sure I follow you. Are you going to rewire the key switch power source back to the starter post ?And the truck is actually a 1968 instead of a 1986 ?

Could be a lot of things I would start here. If the engine is shaking at idle or not it maybe the spark plug wires. easy way to check start the truck take a spray bottle and spray a mist on the wires to see if the truck runs worst make sure you stand back while doing this so you don't get shocked.

1. Turn the steering wheel from side to side until it locks into place. This will make the process a bit easier, as the wheel won't be turning as you work.

2 Remove the horn button in the center of the steering wheel by pulling it off towards you. This will expose the steering wheel nut at the center.

3 Unbolt the center bolt from the steering wheel, using the 1/2-inch ratchet, extension and socket. This might free the steering wheel right away, but most likely you'll have to proceed to the next step.

4 Position the steering wheel puller on the steering wheel such that the center bolt on the puller is on the center shaft of the wheel. Then thread in the bolts supplied with the puller into the two threaded holes on either side of the center shaft on the wheel.

5 Tighten down the center bolt on the steering wheel puller using the 1/2-inch ratchet and socket until the steering wheel pops free. Then remove the steering wheel puller from the steering wheel.

Check the ground wire at the wiring harness at the fuel tank. If it has a good connection then check the power wires to the tank. You may have a bad pigtail going to the tank. A replacement harness is available at NAPA.

What is the engine size?

Adjust (or replace) Brake Light Switch, geerally is located in backside brake pedal.

Keep us updated.

no. its going to be a timing issue.

I had this problem and for me it required changing the fuel gauge.

You need the carb number to get the exact setting but 13/32 should be enough to keep your truck running without any trouble. If you can smell gas a lot then cut it back to 11/32 and if you are having trouble with acceleration or cutting out, bump it up to 15/32. You can get the exact number from a build sheet from a carb kit with the carb number or by vehicle too. Hope this helps.

have support under the fuel tank.
remove the strap bolts & nuts from the tanks support brackets
lower the tank somewhat and remove the fuel lines
Having the tank empty will be a big help
Removing the truck bed makes this job easier too
Now remove the tank & take a hammer and a screwdriver knocking the round retaining cam counter clock wise and remove the retaining cam.
now the sending unit with the pump can be taken out
'reverse proceedure to install

The Black wire will connect to body ground, and it should be a good solid ground and if this wire is not grounded well then you might receive a primary voltage shock if you touch anything that is metal or grounded inside of the vehicle when the engine is running.

The Red wire should be connected to power when the key is in the "Run" position only, and a good place to find that source is one of the "IGN" connections at the fuse panel using a covered female spade connector. Use a test light and be certain that the connection only has power when the key is in the "Run" position, and has no power when the key is in the "Off" or "Accy" position.

The White or Yellow wire should connect to the "LPS" connection at the fuse panel next to the LPS fuse using a covered female spade connector.

The Green wire will connect to the "-" negative side of the ignition coil or the primary side of the ignition coil, and for later model GM HEI equipped vehicles this will be the "Tach" connection next to the main "Bat" connection on the distributor cap if the ignition coil is mounted inside of the distributor cap, or to the "Tach" or "Test" lead that runs from the negative side of the ignition coil if the ignition coil is mounted separate from the distributor. To locate the lead run down the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and the lead should break off from that wire and it should have a tag on the wire that will say either "Tach" or "Test" (sometimes it is just an empty black wire connector) and that is if the lead does not come straight off from the wire connector at the ignition coil. If there is no lead you can get a wire tap connector to tap into the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and then use a covered male spade connector to connect the Green wire from the tachometer to the wire tap connector.

Here is a diagram to help assist you although it might be hard to make it out, and let me know if you require any further assistance.