20 Most Recent 1984 Chevrolet Chevette Questions & Answers

get a socket set and replace it.(It\'s a pain)

I would be inclined to replace the relays as it appears that there is a shorting fault in the relay coil that is not allowing the points to be held together for the correct time period.

you might have a sensor heating up when you drive it, could be the pick up coil in distributor, could be primary coil, could be the distributor itself. try to get codes read.

get the parts from a part store or just replace the steering column with a used one from a junk yard.
go to CAR-PART.COM for a local junk yard with your parts

No. To use a screwdriver you will have to remove the ignition and if you use the door key you won't have any choice in the matter. Take your VIN number to the dealer and they can give you a key code to get a new one cut.

if you have a/c they cost around $30.00 for a new one from advanced auto parts. Cheaper without a/c

The fact that you ask the question indicates you do not have the expertise to do this. Severe damage can be done to the engine if this is done incorrectly. Find a good trustworthy mechanic and pay the expert to do this job.

if you have a 3 wire Alt :
you have to hot to the Bat.

than # 1 of the 2 pins goes to a switched hot (NOT to the Dist. the car wont turn off) this is what turns on the Alt. charging system
the #2 goes to the charging lamp on the dash

I've been driving Chevettes since 1980 and I currently own six of them, in 2019 lol! if your engine is in tune and there is no wind, I've had my speedo buried, so approximately 90mph, since the speedo goes to 80mph. it also depends if you have the 4 speed or auto trans, and your rear axle ratio. 1976 Chevette came with a 3.70 to1 or a 4.11 to 1 gear ratio.

camshaft is under the valve cover remove the valve cover set to tdc and remove timing belt rocker arms and camshaft retainers pull cam replace in reverse might be a few steps i over looked but you'll figure it out when you get started

On the engine block

it is on the side of the throttle body, you will see it! it is even with the throttle plate. Good-Day!

it has a draw, and they will be best equipped to find it. There are more modules on that car than the shuttle. it may take them a while, its warranty right?? its just a process of elimination, removing modules/ components from the "LOOP" until the draw goes away. good luck

ok what are you looking for on the tranny if you need the numbers there is a plate on the tranny or numbers stamped on it

When attaching vacuum lines, you need to remember only one thing. Mark each hose when you remove it from the original carb (quadrajet?) Hoses that attach to the baseplate are at full vacuum and should be returned to a similar location or to the manifold, using a "tree". Hoses that are connected to the body of the original carb only see vacuum when the throttle is opened. Those can be attached to the fitting on the right side of the front metering block. Most Holley carbs have no provision for the valve located at the front of early Q jets (bowl purge) nor do they have any electrical connections except for the choke mechanism.
The most important vaccuum line is the one for your power brakes. Make sure that one is firmly connected either to the rear of the carb baseplate or the manifold. All other lines are nowhere as critical as that one is..