20 Most Recent 1983 Chevrolet Chevette Questions & Answers

COULD BE OIL GALLERY PLUG LEAKING IN CYLINDER HEAD OR VALVE COVER GASKET LEAKING DOWN THE BACK SIDE OF THE ENGINE.

Supports like that use rubber bushings. Without them it is metal on metal. Bad news. Don't use a non supported rotating part.

Can you pull it up? Broken clutch spring.

It is 1 3 4 2

2 things can be wrong here. One- the positive cable at the battery is bad, or two, the solenoid on the starter is bad. and that's a starter change.

The first thing to do is make sure that all the connections at the starter are good, secure on the connectors and free from corrosion. Quite often the connections will look good but there will only be 1 or 2 wires in the strand that are while the rest have either broken off or corroded. Clean them up before you put them back on.
If that doesn't help, there are 2 fusible links in the harness at the starter. One is for the engine and the other is for the rest of the electrical. You are loking for a small rubber plug on a section of 2 red wires. Cut them out and splice the wires back together, one at a time of course. Use "heat shrink tube" to seal the splice before you tape them up. It seals a lot better and will help keep road grime out. Hope this helps.

1983 Chevrolet Chevette Car Radio Wire Guide
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
This will get you fixed up. Enjoy the tunes!!

To be perfectly sure where the number 1 cylinder fire is at this point remove the valve cover, remove the #1 spark plug, remove the distributor cap, clean the crank to identify clearly the crankshaft marking on the crankshaft harmonic balancer wheel.
First step: Slowly turn the crank by hand until the line on the crank lines up to the zero timing mark...if you are on #1 the rotor in the distributor should be facing the #1 segmant in the distrbutor caps firing sequence, to verify further both intake and exhaust valve rocker arms should be in the valve closed positions in the #1 cylinder, the piston should be all the way to the top opf dead center(carefully insert a long skinny screw driver into the #1 spark plug hole to feel the pistons top travel while being sure the valves are both closed as explained above).
With all that checking out you are now exactly on top dead center in the #1 firing order sequence of your valve timing.

you have to drain the antifreeze find a suitable frost plug and knock it out, install block heater"follow instructions" run the plug to the front avoiding the exhaut manifole and any moving parts , or you can get an inline that just splices in the heater hose, good luck

Try the ignition switch

check the power source to fan or you relay sounds like a power problem

get a new mechanic. 66 charger is right about brake lines ,also wheel cylinders can leak air in but still hold fluid in same for calipers. also check proportioning valve. My ? is are you bleeding it out? You also need to bench bleed the master before installing it.

bottom gear go straight up top gear sets about 2oclock thers a small hole in the gear too line up with a hole in the head use a small drill bit too check this!!!!

you shouldn't, take it to a good shop, and sadly you will have to pay DEARLY for it, but honestly its a lot more than most people can handle