20 Most Recent 1999 Chevrolet K2500 Questions & Answers

call dealer with vin number, they can tell you what it was built with.

on the back of the box a new belt comes in

1999 k2500 350 engine Google Search this should be a healthy start at least. if you had given a specific system, i would have been a bit more precise.

Define not working? No air, no heat, not hot or cold?

You were right in checking the fuel pressure. And yes the distributor shaft could be worn enough to be affecting the signal to the coil.The coil could be weak too. You would need to try to figure out if it is a spark or fuel problem to proceed. The throttle position sensor could be wearing out. But if a sensor fails it should turn the check engine light on.

You are plugged up somewhere inspect the air filter,The worst will be the catalytic

The next time it won't start ,pull a sparkplug wire and see if you're getting fire.Then we'll known whether its a ignition or fuel problem and go from there.

thats dangerous for the one holding the handle. there is a rod from each side that runs to the handle. one is probobly out of adjustment. If you can see them under the handle when you lift it up take a screw driver and pry it towards the handle. if it opens then its out of adjustment

Remove front wheelRemove brake caliper (Do not disconnect brake hose)Remove rotorReverse procedure to install

I don't know how whatever accessories you have are hooked up but,

When I would run two batteries for my stereo in my car I had it connected to the auxilary battery. The isolators kinda **** because they are to send more power from the charging system to the battery that needs the most charge. They do not "isolate" as in makeing the system use one battery while not draining the other.

What I did was to hook a solenoid (mine was aftermarket but I think the old style Ford starter solenoids that bolted to a fender will do the same) inline of the battery cable so when my key was off one battery would be cut off from the other. That way I could play the sterio without draining the battery that started the car (the radio was on a rocker switch for when I needed to kill power).

check for power at the wires going intop the tail lights, real common that the circuit board is bad, but unlikely both at the same time. The tag, tail lights and brakes are 2 different systems. Do the turn signals work normally? if so the wiring from the turn signal switch to the brake lights is GOOD. the stop light switch had\s a ORANGE wire that should have 12V if not ck STOP LPS fuse, when brake pedal is depressed, the WHITE wire is 12V (at the stop light switch) if that is OK, the turn signal switch COULD be bad. The wiring harness plug is near the back left under the tailgate, see if that is disconnected?

Distributor cap, rotor button, worn distributor,vacuum leak,coil,ignition module, and bad valves.

Have you checked the power at the switch on top of the transfer case switch? The brown wire has power on it all the time, and feeds power to the transfer case switch. Check to make sure there is power on both sides of the switch when in 4 wd.

Could be the switch, transfer case shift motor, wiring, etc. Also, I suggtes check the fuse box (I think that is in the fuse position 24). Likely there is an actuator on the front differential, it might be steel or it might be plastic , depending on if it has been replaced before, thats whats wrong with your 4x4 if it lights up but dont engage. This work on them all the time.

The two outside terminals of the transfer case switch ( A , and C) Gray/black, and black wires. The brown wire on this vehicle comes off the 4wd fuse in fuse panel directly to terminal C of the actuator. Terminal B of the actuator is gray/black and goes to the transfer case switch. The transfer case switch connects this wire to ground on this year model.( it is different than previous models, wear the switch supplied power to the actuator)

If you ground the gray and black wire the actuator should move. If it does then check wiring to the transfercfase switch and the switch itself:
- The wire from the tranfercase ground to the same location as terminal E of the actuator.
- Connect a test lamp to battery positive voltage and touch terminal E of the actuator. It should light.
- Do the same for terminal B at the actuator, when in 4wd. It should light the test lamp( gry/blk wire)
- If it doesn't light, the transfer case switch is most likely open, poor connection or broken wire.
- If it does light on terminal B when connected to battery positive, Inspect the terminal in the plug for being too loose and not making connection to the actuator terminal.

Hope this helps

Hello
The first thing to do here is drain and refill the transfer case with fresh GM type DEXRON VI transmission fluid, it may just be stuck, there is a drain and a fill plug on the case.

almost all trucks had the flyweell cover beter get a jack and lift it pull the cover 2 or 3 little bolts and your down