20 Most Recent 1990 Chevrolet K2500 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

PICK-UP COIL (HEI)

1. Isolate 2 pick-up coil lead wires. Remove pick-up coil connector from module. Connect ohmmeter to either terminal and ground. See Fig. 4 . Connect pump and apply vacuum to test vacuum advance unit. Replace vacuum advance unit if inoperative. Connect ohmmeter to pickup coil terminals. Operate vacuum pump and observe ohmmeter throughout the vacuum range.

2. Attach ohmmeter to one pick-up coil terminal and distributor housing. Set ohmmeter to middle scale. Operate vacuum advance throughout vacuum range. Reading should be infinite at all times. If not, replace pick-up coil. See Meter "A" in Fig. 4 .

3. Connect ohmmeter leads to pick-up coil connector terminals. Operate vacuum pump to ensure proper operation throughout vacuum range. Flex terminal wires by hand to check for possible intermittent defects in wiring or connectors. Pick-up resistance should be 500-1500 ohms. If resistance is incorrect, replace pick-up coil. See Meter "B" in Fig. 4 .

NOTE: Activation of the vacuum advance may align trigger wheel tooth and pick-up coil pole piece causing ohmmeter pointer to deflect. This
deflection should not be diagnosed as a faulty pick-up coil.

i have the same prob

There common to break off, you can pick up the replacement drain plug at NAPA and buy a stud retracter to remove the drain plug. if the plug is not leaking, Leave it alone and to drain the radiator, just disconnect the lower radiator hose on the opposite side of the radiator.

Good luck and hope this helps you on your project.

linkage is wore, on colum or tranny..

After 8 years, you put in a fresh engine but do not touch the transmission, at least the torque converter? Seriously, hindsight is great, isn't it! Well, you got my take on it. I think you might need to change out that torque converter at the very least and if you do drop the tranny to change that converter, have the transmission gone through as well. Doing any less is just asking for trouble. That fresh engine is just too much for the ole tranny! Sorry for the bad news my friend but that's the way I see em! Let me know what you decide?

Sounds like a vacuum problem to me.

acuator at transfer case or at frt diff if acuator is moving then axles to wheels should be turning and you may have a hub locking problem. if axles to wheels dont turn then the acuator tofront diff is no good not strong enough or bent shaft on acuator, some of these use a small shaft in front of actuator also make sure if this truck use this shaft check it for wear, lift truck remove actuator push inside arm in see if wheels spin turn frt shaft while holding arm in wheel should turn is they do, replace actuator, if they dont turn then diff problem,

Yes it is a 700R4. They went to a 4L60E in 1993. Good Luck

there is a vacuum diaphram that pulls the cable check to see if it is holding vacuum

just make sure it dose not have manual front locking hubs where you have to turn the dial on each of the center hubs on the ft wheels to the lock position before shifting into 4wd

if you could get your truck on a lift you will see that the fuel filter is located around drivers door underneath,
the fuel line lengths are from there up over transmission to engine on back side.

Sounds like the fuel supply through is inadequate. That is a Want-to-be fuel injection system that uses a relay to enrichen the gas mixture.

Solution could be a container of fuel system cleaner, and a spray or two of carb cleaner in the injector.

Other causes could be:
Failure of the "choke" to richen the gas mixture
Vacuum line leakage.
Fuel filter becoming clogged

Hanes has great books that helps you in most of your needs or Chilton also. Those two books will show you both your wire and your vacuum diagrams. Which you can buy or order at your local auto part stores.

you have to pull out the front axles to get the gears out of the differential

it can be either eng, you tell by the VIN of the truck or the federal emission sticker above the radiator

this vehicle should be throttle body injected so the pump should be in the gas tank

it sounds to me like the problem is in the alternator not having enough power to keep the engine and lights running at the same time

Check transmission neutral switch is ok,
Check the charge condition of the battery, Check battery terminals are clean and firmly attached to the battery,
Check battery ground connection to the body is in good order,
Check 12v supply maxi fuse (or fusible link) connections are in good order,
Check operation of 'start' relay (if fitted).
If all above is ok, check the starter motor solenoid operation.

they should go down to your steering box.

check the throttle pos sens