20 Most Recent 1982 Chevrolet El Camino - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Pull the transmission back (or remove) enough to access the flywheel/ torque converter. Remove the converter from the flywheel, then you will see the flywheel bolts that mount the flywheel to the crankshaft--(I think there are 6). It is advisable to replace these bolts with new ones when reinstalling the flywheel, and be sure to get the proper torque spec for the bolts from autozone or a reputable shop and torque them sequencially correct and to the proper spec.

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This is most likely due to a mis adjusted or worn shifter mechanism. Clean it inspect it replace worn parts, lube and adjust.
Adjustment is done with shifter in neutral, there is an alignment hole thru all the arms and the bracket, adjust the length of the arms until a drill bit will insert thru the hole.

You can try an internet search for the wiring diagram. No power to all the parking lights? Then probably the light switch. Make sure you have power to both sides of the fuse. If not the either wiring from the switch or the switch itself. Good luck.

assuming you have spark at the plug... you many want to check your valves. with a spark plug out it would appear to have compression yet under an ideal situation it can be leaking by the valves. depending on your motor etc some can be adjusted. others are hydraulic and are non adjustable. but alot of times checking your rocker arm clearances and gaps can tell you quite abit. granted there are alot of things that can cause this problem but this would be a great starting point. even an intake gasket that is leaking can cause this. Not certain as to how but I have seen it. Good luck

thats kind of a tricky one... it all depends on which kind of a system the relay is running. whether or not its a ground trigger or positive trigger, what kind of power its sending... there are so many variables its hard to say which one you have and since i dont know a whole lot about chevrolets I cant give you a "right" answer. The best thing I could suggest would be to go to google.com and look around in images for a five position relay. Hope that can help

Pull the steering wheel, get the push down tool to push down the lock plate to remove the plate, then pull the turn signal cam theres a screw on the right hand side of the shaft that holds the cylinder in.

Long time sitting so the carburetor will need to be torn down and rebuilt first. The fuel tank will need to be cleaned as well. Radiator shops do that with a pressure check. Change the fuel filter and a new gas line is recomended as well. Varnish is in the lines as you may know from sitting for ten years. All rubber hoses are dry rotted too although they may look good to the eye. The radiator will need to be pressure check and the heater core too. Coolant sitting in these parts will soak the metallic parts and soften the metals causing build up to plug these cores up from age. You will be better off replacing the radiato and heater core for I know if not drained ten years back they will be no good to use

check your dimmer switch, check the connection for corrosion

Check the fuse box under the hood make sure its dry underneath Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

There should be a button inside the column that you push in, or a bolt to remove, been awhile since I did one. You may need to have the key in the lock cylinder and turn the lock cylinder.

The door jab switch in the doors are the more likely problem,there are two,but the driver side is most likely the problem.

Look closely for all hidden screws for they are not hidden. If the cluster is loose and wobbling the speedometer cable is what needs to be removed. Depress the retaining clip fully inward and hold. Then pull the cable out of the cluster. It will simply push back in and lock upon reinstalling it

pull the tank off and check the float on the sender unit

Remove the front wheel, use a flat head to take of the dust cap in the center of the rotor. There will be a big nut with a cotter pin going through it. Remove the pin and the take the nut off. After removing the caliper you will be able to remove the rotor and the bearings inside.

under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. U may have to remove the trim under the dash to see it.

sometimes it the socket u use,,some are thicker then others,,,try a thin wall socket;;;or a regular socket on a spark plug one