1986 Chevrolet Celebrity - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Start by getting a multimeter with a current coil clamp. Put around one battery cable and measure current leaking out. Even after two years, you could have a bad battery

replace the master cylinder flush out the system

What your doing when you touch the test light to that 3rd wire is actually closing the circuit and powering the fan, like the temperature controlled switch should be doing once the engine warms. That sending unit would be screwed into the cooling system where the water can touch it and most likely is in the radiator lower tank or bottom of radiator side tank. Find that sensor and test the wires for power when engine is hot and fan should be on. You could put a toggle switch on it to activate the fan until you get the proper sending unit/sensor.

Why would you want to by-pass anything to start your car?

If your talking about the hearts lines that come off the master cylinder you won't find it you have to make it yourself. You have to buy a line from any parts store and cut and bend it to your needs. I always reuse the end connectors if they're in good condition to get a good seal sometimes the replacement ends don't seal properly and leak. Good luck

Easier from under the car

ignition will trigger if signal from crank sensor, with hei spark plug tester ,read to coil wire and spark plugs wire if spark , depends wich engine if c3i coil and module the module could be the problems you can check it before replace hope it helps

Most common indicators are. Wheel alignment ( not enough Castor adjustment) worn tie rod end/s Incorrect size tyres ( you have to have the rim sizes the same on both sides ) even though you noticed a difference Loose steering box / rack or worn rack mount rubbers Probably the noise under the floor as the rack is bashed up and down from the wobble. What you describe is castor wobble and some makers recommend 0 castor when in fact the setting should be 1/2 to 1 1/2 degree positive.

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Click here to see how to remove.Here's some new ones.

A bad pickup coil in the distibutor will generally fail at extreme tempuratures(mostly hot).It can cause backfiring,missing, and crank but no start.I have also seen the reluctor(on the distibutor shaft)cause similar issues(but usually not affected by temperature).You might see the same problems from a bad ignition coil as well.Try the cheapest part first,but if you do both and still no change,the reluctor is replaceable by a average mechanically enclined person.Just be sure to mark the rotor position on the distributor,and mark the position of the distributor on a stationary object(like the intake manifold)before you remove it.This will help to get it back in with the timing "in the ballpark".

carefully

If you are not getting spark at the coil, then you're coil may need replaced. Also, pull the distributor cap and check the cap on the inside as well as the rotor. If you have not recently tuned up, then I suggest replacing the spark plugs, spark plug wired, (coil wire should come with them); the coil; distributor cap and rotor. When doing the spark plugs and wires, start with one, and replace the plug, then the wire for that plug - do this one at a time - do not take them all off at once, unless you have a book that shows the firing order. (Having a book for any vehicle is a good idea). Please let me know if you have any further questions, or need further assistance.
In addition, if this does not suffice - replace the starter relay. If this is blown, the car won't even turn over.
carsandcomps,
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If you have removed the hold down bolt, the distributor should pull straight out, but it will require turning the rotor base to twist the driven gear out of the cam shaft driving gear. It has been so long since I have pulled a distributor that I can't remember which direction it would need to go. If necessary, a screw driver or small pry bar may be used under the clamp on the distributor base.

Even when it releases from the gear, the inner body of the shaft has a way of hanging up at times that can be due to simple well fitting parts. A brand new part went in and having never been out before, it might involve some twisting and pulling straight up till it comes out. Another part of the problem may well be the oil pump shaft, if its like a small block or 4.3. Those small plastic collars that hold the shaft to the oil pump have a way of just getting gunked up and gluing themselves in some engines. Please be sure that when yours does come out, you dont see any pieces of this breakable part still attached to your distributor. That it what drives your oil pump in other chevy motors I have worked on and cannot be left broken.

I would try to make sure I was turning the rotor to make sure the gear releases rather than just twisting the body back and forth. The gear inside is run by the cam gear and it turns the rotor, so just turning the body will not neccesarily twist the gear. The gear moves due to the rotor moving (to say it backwards) I would try both directions, though I aseem to remember twistin it IN with a clockwise motion, so out would be counter clockwise. Trouble is I a always working on trucks while sittin under hoods, facing sideways, or vans while facing the other way.

the firing orderis 1 3 4 2 cylinder number 1 is the one all the way in the front and they go 1 2 3 4. the distributor is clockwise with the number 1 wire at the back right hand side i hope this helps

need to find a replaced key for a 2000 chevrolet blazer

the power steering pump should have an adjustment similar to the alternator to enable the belt to be adjusted as it stretches,once the adjustment is let off the belt should be easy to remove......hope this helps.......cheers

The symptoms you mentioned could indicate the possibility of a faulty fuel pump. Or, it could actually be a stopped up oil filter. Check the oil filter first before investing in an oil pump. Also, I think, that the oil pump has to be timed with the engine timing on your particular car, so you may want to check into the timing belt also. Just mention the timing chain to your mechanic as that possibility slipped my mind and may be a solution to your problem.

Look near the fuel tank

on a truck this old, I would say that the rings are worn, and the valves are leaking, maybe.

As it warms up the dynamics may change, with different driving and weather conditions making the system smoke or not smoke.