20 Most Recent 1983 Chevrolet Camaro - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Could be any number of things. Bad coil or weak spark, low fuel pressure or clogged fuel filter. A breakdown of the ignition subsystems equivalent to points and firing sensors.You should check EGR by very temporarily plugging vacuum line and see if performance is changed. Sometimes blocked exhaust Catalytics or collapsed muffler baffles will plug up the exhaust and require too much push to clear the pipes.

Check the voltage on the battery, clean contacts and try again. Let me know is this going to help.

Hi, connect the big hot wire from the fuse link to both the switch and the push button. On the other side of the switch, connect the pink, pink/black, and brown/white wires. Finally, connect the yellow wire to the other side of the button. Please let me know if you have any questions.

pull the top dash pad first,screws in the defroster vent and above spedo

Cant send wiring diagrams to you because of copy write laws but you can go to public library & they have proffessional chiltons/electrical diagrams in the referance section & you will find what you need their.ps if they dont have the diagrams the library will send them to you for a very smaall fee if any.Keep posting if you have any more problems

Yes they still exist, you will need to determine which ones and try different part stores .

Hello hamiltonkc40 and thank you for asking your question, on Fixya.

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your blower motor engine, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people like you. So here is the link to:
How to diagnose your overheating race car

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Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

First: Does your motor still have the electronically controlled distributor? It should NOT have a vacuum advance can on it.

Is the ccc-qjet you have in good shape? You can plug in the Mixture Control Solenoid (two-wire connector on top) and with the ignition in 'run' it should begin clicking. If the engine isn't started in about a minute the ECM will command the MCS to stop.

The three wire Throttle Position Sensor pigtail should be providing five volts on one lead and a ground on the other. The third lead is the signal back to the ECM. I'd have to look up which is which but if you find five on only one and continuity to ground on only one you should be good as it's unlikely they'll jump legs.Aside from that it shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to swap carbs. (Always make sure you use two wrenches on the fuel line to keep it from twisting). Clear your ecm trouble codes prior to swapping by disconnecting

Most ccc issues are with the carbs and can be resolved with a rebuild. I've found the TPS sensors in the carbs to be the most troublesome part. Outside of the carb are the O2 sensor, Coolant Temp Sensor, Vac sensor and baro sensor. The O2 should be changed regularly, the others rarely fail although the pigtail to the CTS can be an issue.

red pos

front or rear

run setting screws allll the way in then turn 11/2 turn out - set idle screw .

Ok,What you will need is called a timing tape. It is a piece of tape with timing degrees all the way around it and you install on your balancer so you can read the advance.This can be purchased from any perfomance store. just line up tdc on balancer with tdc mark on tape and wrap around your clean balancer. the other option is find someone with a timing light that will measure the advance.most higher grade lights will have an advance button that you push until Tdc is showing at timing marks and then you rread the advance on light.

fill it until it runs out the fill plug is the rule of thumb