These vehicles were known for faulty hazard switches. They would cause an intermittent turn signal flash when you hadn't activated turn signals or they would prevent the turn signals from working at all. Operate the hazard switch and see if the turn signals work again. If so, replace the hazard switch
The brake warning light should not affect the truck not starting...most of the time is because of low brake fluid or the emergency brake is on. To check for codes you should just turn the key to the on position and you need to try resetting you anti theft light.
Sounds like no power to the flasher module - check with a multimeter and if no power, check the module connector, fuse and power line back to the fuse box.
Best Manuals I honestly suggest you to not waste money on repairs. They're never satisfying and mechanics don't keep you in the loop very much. Try manuals and doing it yourself, you'll know better, and can also judge better.
Dear Matt,
I am so sorry to tell you........yes.
There is another approach to this problem that many thousands of people use every year.
I have used this approach many times myself, since I have had cars with this problem,. and fixed them for other people.
What your dealer is telling you is the cost of replacing the lines with OE parts.
(OE means original equipment. )
And yes, those lines are put onto the frame of the truck before the body is attached, so they really would have to remove the body to change them.
However.
What I and thousands of others have done is buy straight brake lines by the piece, different lengths according to what you need, and then hand bend them to fit the job.
That means the replacements will not be in the same places as the original, and may be longer or shorter than the original.
Your total cost of parts & labor should more approach about a few hundred dollars. ( Maybe 200 - 300?)
God bless your efforts.
Until you locate the source of problem cut off the flow of coolant to heater radiator. If there is an electrically controlled valve that feeds the core, that could be the issue with it stuck in the open position.
Have you checked B+ power feed for memory to the PCM ? The PCM/ECM - engine computer has a couple of power feeds and one is for the keep alive memory . Looking at a wiring diagram of the powers and grounds would show that . Testing with a volt meter would show if it has power or not . Check PCM B fuse 20 amp located in the under hood fuse box . An don't just look at it ,check for voltage across the fuse . This fuse should be hot at all times .
just depends on what work was done and what was replaced last service
clatter and loss of power etc
could be timing out . a spark or fuel delivery issue
to clear the codes
undo the battery terminals ...count ten reconnect
if engine light stays on
there will be fault codes to be read from the ECU
Drivers side (under the hood) by the empty battery tray. The inside large one is the ecm. There are tiny red clips that get pushed back first. Then about the center you push in and the whole clip rotates and then the whole thing comes of the ecm. Bottom one is the same. Unit clips in top tabs. Lift them slightly and remove ecm
this sounds like a problem I once had, the button was pushed too hard and is stuck , try to keep manipulating it until it releases, worse case scenario, yo may have to remove the face plate, to get at the switch to repair it
Which of these transfer case's does your truck have ?
Transfer Case - NVG 149-NP3 Transfer Case - NVG 246-NP8 Transfer Case - NVG 261-NP2 Transfer Case - NVG 263-NP1
The NVG 263 transfer case features a three button shift control switch located on the instrument panel.
DTC B0790 DTC B2725 DTC C0306 DTC C0327 DTC C0359 DTC C0379 DTC C0550
The NVG 246 EAU transfer case features a 4 button shift control switch located on the instrument panel.
DTC B0790 DTC B2725 DTC C0300 DTC C0305 DTC C0306 DTC C0321 DTC C0327 DTC C0359 DTC C0374 DTC C0379 DTC C0550
Regardless both of these switch's are input's to a control module . There are probably DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored . You should have the vehicle checked for DTC , That means taking you vehicle to the repair shop .
Is there power (B+) an ground's for instrument cluster ? When you turn the key to the run position ( not start ) do the gauges do the sweep test ?
Did you perform the Instrument Cluster Diagnostic System Check?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Instrument Cluster
2
Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.
Observe the instrument cluster.
Does the instrument cluster perform the displays test?
Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
Go to Step 3
Turn the ignition OFF.
Disconnect the IPC.
Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit and a good ground.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Perform Diagnostic System Check - Instrument Cluster , Diagnostic System Check - Driver Information Systems or Diagnostic System Check - Audible Warnings before using the Symptom Tables in order to verify that all of the following are true:
• There are no DTCs set.
• The control modules can communicate via the serial data link.
Review the system operation in order to familiarize yourself with the system functions. Refer to the following:
• Instrument Cluster Description and Operation
• Indicator/Warning Message Description and Operation
• Driver Information Center (DIC) Description and Operation
• Audible Warnings Description and Operation
If you don't know about serial data communication an DTC'S I strongly suggest you take your vehicle to a Chevy dealer or an ASE certified repair shop .
