It is possible that while making the knock sensor repairs you damaged a spark plug wire. Folks don't change these often, and with the high temps under hood on modern lean running engines, these should be changed every three or four years.
A fast signal is telling you that a bulb is not working. The unit is set up on amount of resistance that sets the speed. Most likely it is the rear light housing board is cracked. Remove the rear light and open the panel from the back. If this is the problem replace the whole fixture. Note very expensive on Amazon.
It sound like the rear lock is messed up. First thing to check is the fuse in the block under the hood. Many things are fused separate. If the fuse is good you must next check the circuit by removing the rear hatch panel and insuring you have power and ground at the lock actuator. If there is then it may be the lock actuator itself or you may have the rear gate locked out of the system. If that is the case, the dealer may have to unlock it in the computer system. If it has a key at the rear gate see if you can open it manually, sometimes that will re set it.
there is code that does not turn on the service engine soon. have code retrieve.And when the problems occured have fuel pressure check.You have to find out if the problem is electrical or fuel and air .Another way to find it is move engine harness while engine running if it stall could be short to ground or wire cut open
The Internet, though, has a large number of web sites where
you can buy service manuals and schematics from bookstores,
publishers, and other collectors. Here is just a sampling of
what sites are out there:
Factory Auto manuals
http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/
search for : factory service auto repair manuals
Repair Service Manuals
http://www.repairservicemanuals.com/
the largest collection of Automotive Repair Service Manuals
and Owners Guides on the internet. Our database currently
holds over 54,000 entries dating back from 1940 to more
recent 2011.
about Chilton Repair Manuals
http://www.chilton.cengage.com/
about Haynes Repair Manuals
Haynes Publishing
Haynes auto manuals
http://www.haynes.com/
The Internet, though, has a large number of web sites where
you can buy service manuals and schematics from bookstores,
publishers, and other collectors. Here is just a sampling of
what sites are out there:
Factory Auto manuals
http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/
search for : factory service auto repair manuals
Repair Service Manuals
http://www.repairservicemanuals.com/
the largest collection of Automotive Repair Service Manuals
and Owners Guides on the internet. Our database currently
holds over 54,000 entries dating back from 1940 to more
recent 2011.
about Chilton Repair Manuals
http://www.chilton.cengage.com/
about Haynes Repair Manuals
Haynes Publishing
Haynes auto manuals
http://www.haynes.com/
Yes it could be your starter the fact that you hear the click tells you that the starter solenoid is in fact working. Do check your connections for looseness or corrosion prior to starter replacement and fix as needed. Possibly has a dead spot on the starter that won't allow starter motor to turn even though the solenoid engages.
Not enough information to go by, so for starters, check the transmission fluid level, check for engine code(s), check for defective O2 sensors, check for defective catalytic converter, check for blown/missing fuse for transmission, check for defective transmission switch. When was the last time the vehicle had a tune up? Was the vehicle serviced, how recent (might have a loose connector)? Is the gas cap serviceable? These would be where I would start looking, then worse-case-scenario might be a bad transmission. Otherwise, the information given indicates that the vehicle went into limp mode.
Sounds like you have a bad axle joint. Does it get worse on a turn. Can you hear it better in a turn. Bad joint will grind, growl , click, clank and eventually if left go without repair break and fall off the car with lots of collateral damage.
I just did this for my Silverado. you need to remove the air tube going to the air box. that's to help get at the belt tensioner. remove the belt and the alternator. you will have to disconnect the battery before the alternator. once you get those off. there are 5 bolts hold the bracket in place. 4 long bolts in the front 1 way down at the bottom. and a short bolt hiding behind the hoses near the exhaust. once you get those loose. remove the hoses that have the clamps and slide those off and point them up to not lose all the oil out of them. have a pan under the truck to catch any oil dripping. then remove the bolts and pull the bracket with the power steering pump out. you will now have to unbolt the pressure hose and then you have to pull the pulley off. there is a special tool just for that. then there are 3 bolts to get the pump off. reverse to put it back together
