2002 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Should be at the fuse block under the hood. If you have your owner's manual it explains all the fuses pretty good.

Did you do it like this? Voltmeter: black lead on negative battery terminal, positive lead on one of terminals on coil side- turn key to on, and see if there is voltage for about 2 seconds. If yes, check negative terminal of relay's coil side. If no voltage, move positive lead to other terminal for coil side. Turn key to on, and see if you have voltage for about 2 seconds. If yes, test negative side of relay's coil for good ground. If no signal at either terminal, the signal may be lost from the pcm.When you turn the key to on, this will prime the fuel system-pump will turn on for only 2 seconds with key in on, and then if no crank signal, pump will turn off (the relay will not stay energized, so no power will go to pump). But when the engine is cranking over, the relay is energized, the coil side will stay powered as long as engine is cranking. After the engine is running, usually an oil pressure switch is tied into the fuel pump circuit, so the relay is no longer needed to put power to the pump. The pump will always be running when engine is cranking, and when engine is running, but the relay no longer is needed when engine is running. See?

Should be inboard of the frame, roughly under the pedals.

did you check the oil level in the gearbox?if not enough oil it won't shift

Check spark plugs, leads, distributor cap & rotor arm, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack(s), relays, replace any items that are suspect IE Fuel filter which has probably not been changed since new even though they should be changed on all vehicles every 18 months, all of this can be done at home & will save you a lot of bucks in mechanic/garage fees,

have you replaced the fuel filter lately? The seal on the filter housing can be a real pain to get back on in the right location to make a good seal.

sounds like a fuel pump/sending unit.. a pump normally just quits with no warning..

Hi, I need to ask a few questions to help you. First of all, is the instrument panel lighting up when you turn the key on? If not, can you check the battery or try a jump start? After you try this, please get back to me with results for next steps.

From personal experience, You have to unplug every single plug/connector and clean up with electrical contact cleaner. This is a pain in the you know what but, In the end I found about 5 connections that were shorted out, or filled with corrosion. Try this and please let me know how you make out. Please rate answer accordingly!! Thank you

If this was not a problem before the pump replacement then the sender in the tank may of faied or is contaminated with sulfer which is corrosive to the silver electrical contacts.

Do a search on sulfur corrosion and fuel sender units. Gm has big problem with this. Its possable the stress from removing the old and installing the new pump created an issue with contacts. If this is the case you will now need a sender unit.

See GM TSB 05-08-143-001, If you have Adjustable pedals, especially if they don't work with the memeory buttons, but function with thier own buttons. Its the Brake Pedal Position Sensor is shorted and mesing up the seat module which controls the heaters too. My 05 Suburban had the same issue. Can check by unplugging switch and see if heated seats work .

Repair Manual or Owner Manual? eBay is the best bet https://www.ebay.com/b/Service-Repair-Manuals-for-Chevrolet-C3500/183721/bn_7064303093 or Amazon https://www.amazon.com/CHEVROLET-FACTORY-Silverado-Scottsdale-Extended/dp/B013LYFMFO Or online sellers https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+chevy+silverado+c3500+repair+manual Owner's Manual is pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373376034677 ..

complete brake job 2.0 hours

start by replacing the fuel filter and cleanning the lines.

Then you need to check the linkage underneath the floor where it connects to the transfer case, and make sure it isn't loose or mal-adjusted.

i'll look through an auto repairs manual and post the cooling system diagram

There are a few things that can make that happen but usually all you need to do is make sure the emergency brake cable isn't frozen in the "on" position, then take the brakes apart, clean them up making sure nothing is rusted or binding and put them back together. Good time to replace the linings if they are worn but if not, it's not an issue. I've seen a few that even after being removed and carefully examined showed no real reason for not working but after doing what I said, they were fine.
One thing though....brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the atmosphere) so it is a good idea to bleed them or at the very least, siphon out the master cylinder and re-fill it with fresh fluid to prevent future problems..

If you're sure the speaker(s) are OK, your problem may be a bad output stage of the car's radio.

I have found the wiring diagrams online to be unreliable -- they sometimes are listed under the wrong model or year, and have often caused me a lot of frustration and confusion. It is possible that you can get one, but for the sake of reliability you should probably pick up a Haynes manual for your truck - - it will have all of the diagrams you are looking for, as well as many other useful bits of information for repairing your truck. You might have more luck finding the diagram than I ever did ... but I still recommend picking up a Haynes manual for your future reference -- at under $30 US it can save you thousands in mechanic costs (if you have the time and tools to do your own repairs). These manuals are available at most auto-parts stores and larger bookstore chains.
If you are unable to find the Haynes manual for your truck, or just have your mind set on getting one online, you should include a bit more information to assist with your search:
1. Make, Model and year of your truck (which is here) 2. Engine size / type (is it a diesel, turbo-diesel, hemi, standard 5.7 L gasoline engine?) 3. Are there any engine or other upgrades that could affect the wiring? 4. Is it your entire wiring harness that needs replacing, or just the fuel gauge wiring? 5. Does the truck have an automatic or a manual transmission? (this can affect the wiring harness style and connections). 6. Do you know why the wiring burned out in the first place? (so you can possibly avoid the same issue in the future by changing where the wires sit when connected is possible)
I wish you the best of luck ... if you can't find the Haynes manual, please reply with the above information and I will do my best to help you find the appropriate wiring diagrams for your truck.