20 Most Recent 1994 Chevrolet G20 Questions & Answers

They probably are the same. Any salvage yard could check their interchange database and tell you right away.

Firstly if the engine isn't running at it's peak it won't be producing as much heat as usual and secondly an engine rarely runs cooler than usual in average ambient temperatures so it is probable the temperature gauge isn't indicating accurately - this could be a faulty gauge, a faulty instrument voltage regulator, bad connection(s) or bad wiring or a tired sensor. It could possibly mean the sensor bulb isn't in complete intimate contact with the coolant due to a buildup of scale or even combustion gas bubbles from a failing head gasket.

You have a wiring problem on the control side wire . One wire will have B+ voltage the other goes to the PCM- engine computer . The engine computer suppy's a ground when triggered by cam sensor . Your problem is you have a bare wire touching ground making the injector fire all the time the key is on ! Check the wiring harness from the injector to the PCM for rubbed through spots ! The PCM must be inside the passenger compartment under the right side dash or behind the right kick panel . Here is a web site for free wiring diagrams . http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Click on the search button , then the second blue link. Second diagram down is fuel injector electrical circuit. Dark green wire is the controlled ground . That is the wire to check .

If you have power to the coil but no spark, did you replace the coil? You may have an intermittent wiring problem inside the coil (common).

Check vacuum lines. There is a large one on the power brake booster that goes to the back on the fuel system. Make sure you have vacuum before you try anything else. A vacuum leak will cause you to stall out.

Under the hood.

Check your E-break first, secondly check to make sure you have no errors kicking from the control unit (engine computer module) which may or may not trigger a check engine light. Moreover it could be several things. Since it's an automatic the drive train maybe damaged, controller unite could be damaged, the transmission could (and probably) is dying. I'd have a professional mechanic check it out.

It is on the accumaltor by the low pressure switch or on the line close to it

Assuming you have a good battery there is a small wire that goes to the battery terminal on the starter (big red wire) That is where you get power to ignition switch. this is a fusable link wire If you pull on it slightly and it streches it is burned into.Resist the urge to replace it with a non fuseable wire, it is at any parts store

check your trans fluid level before any thing else, low fluid will cause it to slip, if it is low and you keep driving it that way then you will burn up the clutches and need a rebuild

My info says under the driver seat also. But the P series is on left side behind shipping panal. Not sure what that means. I looked under all the options and these were the only two areas stated. On most chevy's we find them up high behind the glove box.

to me, it sounds like the actual shift linkage has a problem. a snapped or loose cable can and has done that.

it will be a special oil that is only sold by accredited ac specialist shops . If there has been no failure of the system other than a leak then there will be no need to put oil in the system. This is not a job for DIY's as as the quantity of oil has a maximum amount and too muck makes the system inoperative