20 Most Recent 1992 Chevrolet C/K 2500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

There are a few conditions that will not set a code. For example, stumbles are often caused by ignition coil problems. If the problem persists at a certain RPM, could be an O2 sensor problem in closed loop operation not lasting long enough to set a code, or a fuel regulator or injector problem. I would get a good code reader and check readings from all sensors in the circuit (including misfires) to see if you can pin down the problem.

Hooking up a scan tool that can view engine sensor data parameters would be the best way to diagnose . Where are the fuel trims (short & long term ) Adding or taking away fuel , are the O2 sensors switching normally , what is the fuel pressure & flow , MAF sensor data ? Without testing we'd only be guessing ,a lot of thing's could cause your problem . Your best bet , take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop. 069 Emission Tests Misfire Scan Data 064 Emission Tests Scan Data Pre Check How to test fuel pressure injector pulse and spark with basic tools Honda

Always start back at the beginning. Remove the master cylinder and bleed it before fitting. Then you can bleed the hub furtherest away from the master cylinder, working your way towards the closest. Also make sure all the pistons/wheel cylinders are pushed all the way home first.

Try reprogramming the fob. You can find videos on youtube

I don't think it's your ECM. Your problem has a pattern which is based on time or temperature. You might try looking at the IAC or "idle air control". It regulates air intake and adjust idle speed. They can get dirty and need cleaning.

if the gas is coming out of the exhaust that could mean that you have no spark to burn the gas in the cylinder but there is a risk of fire put the o ring in place before taking any more risks gasoline and sparks and hot engine combine to make fire have patience and do the right thing after you put the o ring check for spark

Sounds like your axle seals have leaked out all the fluid. Take it to a garage and get a free estimate on it and they will check your axle seals.

Try checking the Trans fuse in the fuse box with the key on engine off to see if there is any power there. I do this with the fuse installed and use a test light to probe the back of the fuse. If ok you will have power on both sides. If you don't it is more then likely the ignition switch. There are dealer bulletins on this were they bypassed the ignition switch with a relay or just replace the switch. If the fuse is ok and has power you need to disconnect the trans connector and see if there is power to terminal E if I recall with the ignition on engine off. If no power there the wire has an open and this would have to be located. The most likely cause for this is the Ignition switch and I have replaced many for this problem.

Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Any fuses in the diagram, test for voltage, some are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on. Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts. Leave the leads hooked up to battery, have a helper turn key to crank, how far does it drop? In my opinion it shouldn't drop much under 10 volts, I wouldn't argue with 9.6 volts.

This is the most common problem on these engines that will cause every issue you just mentioned.

The problem is not the fuse most likely but the reverse light switch on the transmission. If it is an automatic the reverse light switch is part of the large switch that sits under the cable that shifts the transmission gears you select. If it is a manual it is located on the side of the case of the tranny. The interior lights are on a different fuse, do they come on at the head light dome light switch? Has the bulb been checked. I do not have the owner's manual on file due to the age of the truck, sorry.