20 Most Recent 2004 Chevrolet Malibu - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Thanks, Glad I can try, however, its very easy to locate. if there's a plastic trim/cover over the engine remove-it and set aside. The Spark Plugs is sitting right below the Ignition Cassette or Coil as it is also referred to, it may say ECOTEC on the cover, secondly, remove the electrical harness on right side of the cassette, it's just above the oil filler cap, then remove the four, 10 bolts and pull-up the Ignition cassette. All four Spark Plugs will be there for easy removal and replacement. Reverse actions will be in order... Here is what you will need to perform the repair: 3/8 in ratchet, 5/8 in Spark-plug Socket, 3/8 in extension 12 ins long and a #10 socket. For your 2004 Chevrolet Malibu with a 2.2 liter ECOTEC Engine. Hope this DIY was helpful!

they might have left wires loose on the cam or crank sensor

it will not crank usually with a bad crank sensor usually this is a misunderstood code for the crank position sensor being out though as the code for that is the same as the code for the cam position sensor, more times than not the cam position sensor is the issue nt the crank. i have recently been throught his one myself and spent $40.00 i didn't have to by not knowing this and just replacing the cam position sensor and calling it a day. IF the cam position sensor is gone out the car will still start but it will only catch and turn over if the starter is able to crank it at above 1100 RPM and when it does start it will be rough idle and the car will die as soon as you take your foot off of the gas pedal.

the cutie pie plastic panel on top of motor, ah unscrew it? the FSM cover this step by step. (i think there is no cutie cover) or alldata.com some just say remove the cover , knowing the shop mech, can see the screws. if it snaps off, they might say that in the book. think about that, if there are no screws, how would it attach./? yes, snaps. ah the spark rail. alldata.colm ign coil housing replacement.? steps. Disconnect the EI module harness connector. Remove the ignition coil housing attachment bolts and remove the ignition coil housing. with boots. see the 4 bolts on to in plain sight? those. then gently pry it up. so as not to break all this weak plastic bs. put back with dielectric great as the FSM states. or next time, comes off will fail.

If your car has over 100K on it, you will need to go and have it tuned up and the throttle body cleaned and spark plugs changed, my 2004 acted like this and I did the tune-up and it solved my problem.

Depending on your Model (and they do have many dashboard versions in '04 I believe). Hazard switches can either be located at the bottom of your Radio A/C console on a Red Triangle button two function, the right will be the one, or on the very top in a recessed spot just before the actual top left red triangle, for other models in 2004, just simply look for the Red Triangle on a black button? That would be-it!

I would have like you to be specific when you say looks working by themselves, however, you may have a sensor issue, firstly, try to disconnect your Battery poles (both) and let rest for at least 1/2 to one-hour, then install them back-on to see if the computer is re-set. When you can, and or if it still is crazy, go to a reputable mechanic with a good diagnostic tool, and have it scanned to pin-point the issue! The first, should solve-it! Good Luck!

If you mean the power steering pump, just look for the pump fluid reservoir. The power steering pump and reservoir are together as an assembly.

Possible vacuum leak. Check engine light should be on (if not check bulb) Pull code fix problem

Sounds like its the blower motor resistor is bad, its up by your blower motor, its where the wire for the blower motor comes from, also I have seen the wire and connector melted on some of these to

Well I mainly do preventative maintenance and on almost always are ahead, and never had to get there. Well I have dealt with a similar situation more than once successfully! I use thing that works, but is cases where parts are long gone, it still does a bit, and changes are seen as you drive! If you have not yet replace the Tranny Lubricant, it would be a good time too. If you did, here is something that you can get that is no myth (NANO Energizer), you buy a 30ml pouch of NANO-E, and with the vehicle just back from a run and hot. Shave the NANOe making sure that all of the particles are melted inside its pouch, and then pour the contents into the Transmission, and install the dip-stick in place, start the engine and drive for about 15-20 minutes, and back. From that moment, until about 50K miles, Nano will constantly be working (even if you change tranny fluids), it will be on the entire internal (not in the lubricant), it will be getting better by the miles, with an entirely coated Platinum/Ceramic coat that re-build and repair as much as it can and depending on ware of the past. But its your best help and protection and wort every drop (do not waste-it). Go to your local Parts store, and get yourself a LUCAS Transmission Fix 24oz but will need to remove some Tranny fluid and pour all of the 24 oz in (Two days after NANOe), and You will see the difference, NANOe would not be present in your oil almost immediately, it would be doing its job, and need you to drive as much and for years. Florida or not. I am in Florida too! NANO: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NANO-Energizer-Auto-Restoration-ENGINE-TRANNY-GEARBOX-POWER-STEERING-/151293555904 LUCAS Transmission Fix: Sold Nationwide at most Parts Stores! It will help and its a DiY. Great Luck! NANO Energizer Auto Restoration ENGINE TRANNY GEARBOX POWER STEERING

Sounds like the wheel is touching something when the nose goes down a bit. I had a similar problem and found it was the stone guard under the front fender

usually cleaning the idle speed contrlol valve from carbon buildup, fixes idle surge and stalling. try soaking vave in throttle body cleaner or inyector cleaner.

Where are you getting your parts may I ask?