20 Most Recent 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Possible stuck relay. Feel tops of relays for a warm or hot one with everything off.

have you checked for power at the fuel pump relay? Or checked that the relay is good?

try each switch on each door ,,,thing main control switch is bad,,

you dont have to remove the head but you do have to remove valve cover timing chain cover since you will be removing both cams to access the hydraulic lash adjusters {lifters}the link is not the 2.2 but shows what is entailed in removing the cams Cylinder Head 101 Remove Cams Rockers Lifters

It sounds like have some problems its to hard to say with out seeing it . It could pour job was done the last time you had it worked on these bolts should not be coming lose under normal driving conditions . Have someone else look at it likely it can be saved . This is why bolts are torqued they shouldn't come lose unless something attached to them is lose.

That sounds like a stuck lifter, have it inspected ASAP. Also verify there is enough oil in the engine.

Sorry not here.

Your Cav has Fuel Injection, therefore the electric fuel pump is inside the tank. uel injection units require much more pressure than a manual pump can deliver.

Reset button, no such button in this make.

No, the evap system purges into the intake to reburn gases. It normally before the throttle body suction and has no effect on engine vacuum. A leak would impose a small decrease in a mass airflow reading. Plus an evap leak causes your fuel to evaporate more because it has somewhere to escape.

Your best bet is to take your vehicle to a ASE certified repair shop .

If you are talking about one out of a Pontiac or other model I do not think they will but there might be aftermarket that will.

Dexcool ! GM antifreeze . You don't want to mix with green coolant , gels up an clogs heater core , engine block passages etc..

The actuator is on the heater box in the middle of the car. It is a small motor that runs the arms that change the directions of the air from the heater.

If memory serves me correctly, there are ring terminals on the starter. One of these is the battery positive, and there is another one stacked on top of it that goes to the fuse box. Check here for a bad connection. Please note, the small ring terminal just excites the starter. - I dont think there is a fusible link in this system, but if there was, it would be right near the ring terminal on the starter.

Check and make sure one of the motor mounts is not broken.

If the wheel alignment has been done recently and you haven't hit any major pot holes/curbs check tire pressure first to make sure all are even. You may have a bad tire causing the pull as well. You can rotate the front tires to the back and retest for the pull.If pull is still present, you may have a torque steer issue or steering/suspension problem. Has the ride height been modified? Check font end components ( tie rods/ball joints/control arm bushings for wear ). Make sure you are using a flat road surface to determine the pull. Most engineers design the road crown for water to flow off on the right side so the vehicle will always want to go to the right slightly. Keep this in mind

Plenty of wires run around the back of the engine and transmission. Sounds like you may have caught some in between the engine and transmission when putting them together. This would definitely cause a problem like this. I been there and done it.