20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet C2500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Listen at the tank filler area while someone turns the key on (don't try to start), You should hear the pump run for a short time, then shut off. If it keeps running, then the pump is likely worn out. If the pump runs at all, the fuse and relay are ok. You can check fuel line pressure (rent a test kit) at the test port (looks like a tire valve) on the fuel rail just above the injectors. You should read about 45 PSI--anything much lower, suspect the pump or pressure regulator.

Check the brake fluid, if not low it might be in need for service.

Make sure plug & wire good on # 2 cylinder, something may be misfiring on that one. (that's code 302)
1133 is oxygen sensor, bank 1, sensor 1, should be drivers side, before catalytic converter, but double check at parts store to be sure.

wiper motor it self going replace the motor [napa $45]you will be asked for the color of your connector at the motor its either gray or black

check starter and ignition fuses and relays if ok re move starter and send to service shop

If you disconnect the battery for 20 min it should kill all memory and reset everything.If not you charge is still low charge up your batt. with a charger.and test your alt. output 13.9-13.7 you have to check the book.I'm not to sure on that.You might have a voltage regulator problem bad batt. Or somthing is hooked up wrong. Mabey the old alt was fine. Have the batt. tested. All alt. well most are rebuilts so you might have a bad one it happens.Make sure that it's putting out a charge.
Loose alternator drive belt or loose or corroded battery cables. The battery itself may also be bad.

go to your local auto parts store and get you a HAYNES techbook. or which ever other brand it is they carry for your car.

First of all I would go to like Checkers, or Auto zone and let them put a battery draw down tester on your battery and check the battery.Second I would check your battery connections if the batter checks out. Also check engine grounds. You will hear noises when re-powering up. That is normal.

How about the brake switch above brake pedal? Any fusible links or relays that can be checked?

haynes and chilton both have that diag. any autoparts store around 19.95

you could be getting to much gas

If I remember you have to remove the steering wheel to get to the release for the key switch to come out.If you have a tilt wheel let someone with experience do it,you will be glad you did,and it wont be cheap.Sorry!

sound like a bad wheel sensor.it will cause the abs light to come on.take it to dealership have them to scan the abs system.

i had to buy a new instrument cluster to fix mine.

try replacing the vehicle speed sensor in the rear of transmission

Hope this help

Vortecs are a little different that old school small blocks, grab a Haynes or Chiltons, the cross patterns and specs are simply diagramed. Vortec, as any really, start with 25# then 45# and then final torque which I believe is around 70-75# but to be sure verify with the manual. AutoZones, Murry's, Adavance auto all carry the books, Cheap insurance.
Dan

It is extremely likely you have a short somewhere causing the fuse to blow. Often this can by at one of the taillight sockets itself, but don't limit your search there. If you have trailer lights, it is commonly possible that it is occurring at the interface (where you plug your trailer lights into your vehicle. If unplugging/detaching the trailer light inteface from your vehicle allows for the problem to go away, take the interface apart and check the connections. These are typically just raw wires striped and squeezed in holes held by brass screws, creating opportunities for stray threads of wire to wander. See if one of the wires is loose or not contained within and grounding out with another contact or the interface case itself.

the rad cap is on the top of the radiator on the passenger side,as for the thermostat....locate the upper rad hose(comes out of the top of the rad aprox 3" wide) it should be on the driver side of the rad. Follow the upper rad hose from the rad to the engine,the housing for the thermostat is at the end of the hose.
1:drain the radiator(there is a drain **** at the bottom of the radiator protrudes from rad looks similar to a wing nut)
2:Remove the two bolts in the thermostat housing(there may be some nuts holding some ground wires there that you have to remove before you can remove the thermostat housing bolts)
3:remove the housing ...........note: make note of the position of the thermostat before removal.
4:clean gasket surfaces install new gasket \ silicone (automotive grade silicone can be used with or without gasket) 5:insert new thermostat in the proper position.
6:replace housing and hose and top up the rad
hope this helps.......Thanks for choosing FIX YA!

Check the oil level with the truck off. It should be off for 5 mins before checking oil.

Oil level should be in the hash marks. as long as it is in the hash marks you are good to go.

If it is trans fluid level that you are checking the truck needs to be running in park. The hash marks on that dipstick work the same.