20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet C2500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

There should be 8 frost plugs on this engine. Two in the front, behing the ps pump and alt, two in the back of the engine, it will be necessary to RR transmission and 4 underneath, under both motor mounts, the starter and one you can see on the drivers side of the motor.

DT

Sounds like a plugged evaporator core. The blower motor in located under the dash on the passenger side, behind the glove box. Some models have a trim molding which will unbolt for access. Once you have removed the blower motor, look inside the duct work and see if dirt, paper, ect has plugged the evaporator core. Sometimes a small vacuum cleaner will be able to **** out the debris.

DT

You could have any number of problems. Sound like a lean mixture problem. Make sure all vacuum lines are connected. Make sure the upper intake is sealed properly (correct torque and tighting sequence. Spray a mist of water around the gasget area and listen for a hissing sound. If you have a scanner, test each cylinder to isolate the missfire. You may have disturbed one of the injectors and they are not firing. Some debris may have fallen into the cylinder intake port and is keeping a valve open. Plug wires may have been switched. Best thing is take it to your local mechanic.

DT

First you need to see if current is getting to the starter solenoid. You can do this with a test light or a voltmeter. Check to see if there are 12v + at the large red wire going into the starter solenoid (engine off key off). If you have no voltage, then check the battery connections. Some GM have two large positive wires coming off the positive post. Make sure both are getting voltage. If only one has power you could have the problem of power in the cab but not at the starter.
If you have power to the starter then check the small wire at the starter solenoid. Have someone turn the key on to the crank position. If you have 12v to the small terminal, then you have a starter problem. If you have no power at the small terminal,then check the neutral safety switch. If you have an auto transmission, it will be on the side of the transmission. If you have a standard transmission it will be on the clutch pedal. If you have no power to the neutral safety switch, then you can check to see if power is coming from the ignition switch. Check manuals for test sequence and which wire to test. If you have power from the ign switch but not to the neutral safety switch, look for a bad connection or broken wire.

DT

Remember that the relay only will send power to the fuel pump for only 3-5 seconds after the key is turned on. You will need someone in the cab cranking the engine over while you test the circuit to the pump. Make sure you are testing the correct wire. If the engine will start with starting fluid, then there is a fuel delivery problem. Connect a fuel pressure guage to the fuel rail. If you have the required pressure, then you may have a computer that is not grounding the injectors. If you have no fuel pressure, you may have a inoperative fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

DT

1998 Chevrolet C 2500 5.7 liter V-8 VIN "R"




Hope this helps (remember rated and comment this).

try pulling the vacumn pipe off the EGR valve

look for a fault in the ignition switch first ,like put a test light on the feed wire for the starter on the back of the ignition switch ,have a feeling it could be a broken contact spring and its loose inside the switch .

Check your ground wire for battery where it connects to your frame.

Also check/clean the connections where the positive wire goes to the starter solenoid. Any connection you run into from the battery, clean them off with a wire brush or sandpaper.

Starter Solenoid can also be failing/dead, these can be tested for free at most auto part stores if you remove them from the vehicle.

First step, scan the computer for fault codes first. If no fault codes are present. Check the ignition switch your problem may be a bad contact inside the switch.

Check your fuel pump as it may be failing and be the cause of the initial fuse burn out. Check for 12-volts to the pump. If there is 12-volts and the pump does not run, it should be replaced.

Second step, you may have a faulty PCM (Power Control Module) power relay.

Also, try running the engine and shutting it off to duplicate your no start condition. Then, check the fuel injectors for a minor leak that would be flooding the engine. If you find a leak, the cure is to replace the injectors.

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dragging starter or bad ground cable

went to move my seat forward on driver's side and seat back flipped forward and now does not lock. What to repair?

You have a bad starter drive, If you know how to disassemble a starter you can buy a starter drive and install it otherwise i recommend replacing starter

It's probably a bad brake hose. It may be clogged and won't allow the caliper to retract after you let off the brake. I would recommend replacing both of them at the same time.

If the leak is a hole in the hose itself then it needs to be replaced.

have you turn the steering wheel a little to take the pressure of the ignition switch while you trying to turn it.

There is a swith on the xfer case. Do this...Key on engine off select 4wd. With a 12 volt test light go to the front axle and disconnect 4 way connector and check for power to front axle actuator (About 2 inch in diameter screws into axle on pass side) I believe wire color is brown. If you have power you have a bad acuator (unscrew from axle). If you do not have power you have a bad xfer case sw or blown fuse.

Should pull off when the wheel is off, it may be rusted to the axle hub, or sometimes they get a rust ring built up inside that drags on the brake shoes when you try to remove it. I use a large ball pein hammer and strike between the lug studs to free it up, and then use large screw drivers to "pry" the drum off. If this won't work, you may need to adjust your rear brakes smaller to help, if it also isn't rusty.