20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Very well could be the crank sensor. It tells the ECU when to fire the ignition and they do fail.

Check all fuses and relays associated with radio /audio and amps most likely this is the problem.Now is your system totally stockin or has it.been modified.

in the carb there is a needlejet and float that regulates the amount of fuel in the chamber of the carb ,,, the jet could be stuck ... or also there is a main jet that feeds fuel into the manifold fromthe carb ,,, this could be blocked ,,,, you will have to remove top of carb to check these ,,,,dont open unless u have some mechanical experience because they can be complicated ,,,, if the truck is not in use that much or not used for long periods the needlejet could be stuck shut ,,,, a firm tap on the cover near the fuel feed can sometimes free it,,, and i domt mean to hammer it !!!

@ 2000 gmc: Exactly right.

asker: Also, it helps if you're rolling at about 2 mph with the steering wheels straight.
You cannot shift into 4LO with the wheels turned or when in a drive
gear. Also, it may be that you need the electric shift unit serviced.
It is not recommended to drive on dry pavement while in 4LO.

Get lucus transmission treatment bet it works

you have vacuum line out of place on the intake manifold. go back and check it. the starter has a pink wire on the firewall somewhere on the driver side. its a resistor wire that often melts in half. if you smell this burning wire smell then its a dead giveaway. you probably need to replace this resistor. it could also look like a fuse. or could be a relay.

These are turned on by a switch associated with your shift lever.Things that can cause this....1. The bulbs may both have both burnt out. People often don't notice one burning out, but will notice when both are burnt out. 2. The switch may have gone bad.3. If your shift column is not lined up properly (like you have to shift the indicator to N or 2, or a gap between places to get it into D, then this can also cause the switch not to be activated when reverse is engaged.

When you say it is locking up, do you mean that the pulley stops spinning completely while the motor is still running? (this might cause the serpentine belt to burn, come off, or the car to stall or shudder badly) If so, chances are that either the compressor has already failed completely, OR inside your A/C system is a part called an Orifice tube. This is basically a small filter in the A/C tubing that is supposed to catch small particles and keep them from going into the cooler/evaporator in the cabin of the car. If this little part get's totally clogged, it will cause a back up of pressure and lock the compressor up. This is something that has to be serviced by a shop with specialized tools. DIY on a/c is a bad idea as these systems are SUPER sensitive (even the humidity in the air can ruin parts if you do the job slowly and without the right tools).If this is your problem, it will likely mean several new parts minimum for your a/c system. If you can afford it, the best bet is to take it to a professional a/c shop. If the compressor has already started to fail and there is metal in the lines, then you may need to replace the whole a/c system as it is very difficult to flush all the metal particles from all the lines and the other parts and any left over metal shavings from a broken compressor will just break the next one as well.If there is no metal in the lines and the compressor is still in good shape and just the orifice tube is clogged, then you may have caught this in time. You then might have to replace the accumulator/dryer, the orifice tube, and the Freon. The accumulator has a chemical drier in it that if it breaks down is what may travel downline and clog the orifice tube/filter. These 3 parts MAY be a fix for you. Best of luck!

I would have transmission module checked. Basically it is the brains for the transmission.

Have you had it scanned for codes?

Put your car in neutral and and press the 2wd if that don't work go about 3mph and do the same process. If it still won't change you may have some type of sensor or electrical problem.

This has a internal pressure regulator removal of the plastic upper intake manifold is required to replace regulator

Check for fuel and spark first. Those truck are known for needing fuel pump replacement due to a bad facorty harness. I see them in my shop quite often.

bank 1 is the drivers side,and it is the down stream sensor,the one after the cat,converter,If this was helpful,please let us know,thank you.

You could try to find a set of gmc equivalent seats, the gmc seats are fully adjustable and should bolt right in. Also I have a friend who says caddy escalade seats will fit.

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