Top 10 1996 Chevrolet Tahoe Questions & Answers

Fluid Should Be Checked Just The Same As Engine Oil. Should Be Changed At Least Once A Year For Proper Service & Reliability. Should be Driven 10 Miles A Month In 4 Hi To Keep Lubricated. I Drive A 1975 Chevy K10 PKP FullTime 4X4 NP203 & A 1980 GMC Jimmy Lock-Outs 4X4 NP205, And I Drive Them Once A Month At 55 MPH For 10 Miles (On Pavement). Keeps The System Lubed Up & Moving. Have Done This For The Last 15 Years I Have Owned Them. KEEP THEM SERVICED. Low Oil Is A Transfer Case Killer. Also Put The Correct Type Of Fluid In, Each Transfer Case Takes A Different Type Of Fluid, Call Dealer Shop For Correct Fluid Type. Some Take Dextron III Or 10-40 Engine Oil Depends On Transfer Case.

Transfer case

Hello;
The ECM is located inside your passenger kick panel. The codes that your friend pulled relate to the drivetrain portion of the ECM. The controls and solenoids that are causing your shudder are inside the transmission in the valve body. The TCC is probably at fault and locked on. Hope this clears things up. Let me know if you need more help.
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest

It doesn't blow cold air? Doesn't come on at all? What's the problem? If it doesn't blow cold after a charge, it leaks. Either on the compressor or in a line or both. To start at the dealer, a compressor is about $1200. That's what they told me. I have two leaks. You can buy remanufactured compressor on ebay for under $200. Or find a good shop (polar bear around here) with reasonable prices and have them do it for something in between.

If it no air is moved at all by your climate control system, the blower motor could be fried, the switch may have gone bad or a fuse is blown perhaps. If it moves air, but not cold air, recharge it and see if it stays cold. If so, great! If not, find the leak.

On my 93 S-10 Blazer there is a small cable that goes from the shift lever to the gear indicator. As you shft gears it pulls the indicator with it. that cable may have come off or broken.

if no codes came up, then the first thing I would suspect is the fuel pump. to check it, you can stand by the rear end of the truck while your friend sits inside and switches the ignition to the on position. you should hear a somewhat lous buzzing noise as soon as he switches the key on. it should buzz, then stop after a few seconds. if you cant hear it, then its probably the fuel pump thats bad. or, if you want to be positive about it, remove the fuel line from the throttle body. careful though, it may still be pressurized, hold the fuel line over a bottle and have someone turn the key to on again. you will have a strong stream of gas coming out if the pump is good. if its very weak or none at all, then definitely replace the pump. if the fuel pressure is good, then look into the ignition module in the distributor. thats a common problem with these engines as well, and if I remember right, thyre not too expensive. other then that, I cant think of anything that would cause a no start and not set off a trouble code. either way, I wish you luck.

then the seloniod actuator if the front diff may be bad, this is common,heres a diagram to show you what it is and where it is, hope this helps.

your tahoe has what is reffered to as a spider injector. meaning it has a central injector and 8 nozzles. you will need to remove the upper intake to replace the injector. this will be the black plastic portion.

my issue at the moment is that the linkage (control arms) have come apart. it looks like there's a part missing from between the two control arms. there's a small electric motor with one arm and another arm that controls a flap somewhere that shifts the air flow between floor and up top. both of these control arms have a square hole in the ends and i don't see a way for them to be reconnected. so i'm assuming that there's a part missing.

Linkage is disconnected.