Top 10 1996 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup Questions & Answers

heater core or leak on cooling system

The retaining clip is the most difficult part of this job. The clip is a round spinning clip that slides onto the shaft of the brake pedal stem. You need to get a small screwdriver and work at finding the round part where there is a gap. you need to pry this gap apart until you can get something else behind it. Re-installing is quite difficult as you need to get your arm around the entire brake light switch. This will be a difficult job and may take several hours just to pry the clip. The dealer only stocks this clip, the autozones, etc. do not have it. Be carefull.

GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
Power Brake Booster

The power brake booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. Some models may be equipped with a single or dual function vacuum switch which activates a brake warning light should low booster vacuum be present. Under normal operation, vacuum is present on both sides of the diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, atmospheric air is admitted to one side of the diaphragms to provide power assistance.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1994-97 Models
(see Figures 1 and 2)

1. Apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
2. Remove the master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts, then reposition the master cylinder and combination valve out of the way; if necessary, support the master cylinder on a wire to prevent damaging the brake lines.
   

1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.

1. From under the dash, remove the retainer and washer from the brake pedal on 1994 utility models. On all other models, remove the retainer and brake switch from the brake pedal.
2. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.
3. From under the dash, remove the power brake booster-to-cowl retaining nuts.
4. Back under the hood, remove the power brake booster and the gasket from the cowl.

1. Position the booster to the cowl using a new gasket.
2. Install the booster retaining nuts and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1994 utility models, 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) on 1994 pick-up models and 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) on all 1995-97 models.
3. Connect the pedal pushrod and install the washer or switch and the retainer.
4. Connect the vacuum hose.

1. For all vehicles covered in this guide, gauge the booster rod:
   1. Apply 25 in. Hg (85 kPa) of vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump or apply maximum engine vacuum.
   2. Check the maximum and minimum rod lengths using J-37839 or an equivalent pushrod height gauge.
   3. If the piston is not within limits, install a service adjustable piston rod and adjust it to the correct length.
      
   
   
2. Reposition the master cylinder and combination valve bracket to the booster studs, then secure using the retaining nuts. For details, please refer to the master cylinder procedure located earlier in this section.
3. Start and run the engine, then check for proper booster operation.

it sounds like you have a line hooked up to the wrong spot, and that little black box sounds like the charcoal canister, which is used to filter out fuel vapors. it sounds like either the supply or return line has been hooked into the vapor line. retrace your steps, largest diameter line is supply, medium is return, smallest line is vapor line. good luck!

Rod bearing torque at 38 ft.lbs.

Here is the drive cycle procedure for that vehicle, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


Running an OBD-II Drive Cycle

The purpose of the OBD-II drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive cycle should be perfomed when any trouble codes are erased from the PCM or if the battery was dis-connected. Performing the drive cycle will reset the monitors so that any further trouble codes can be detected.

The OBD-II system drive cycle begins with a cold start with the coolant temperature below 120 degrees F. and the coolant and the air temperature sensors within 10 degrees of each other. (The ignition key must not be "on" or in the "Run" position until the cold start or the heated O2 sensor diagnostic might not start)

1. As soon as the vehicle starts up, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the AC and the rear defrost on if equipped with a rear window defroster. The OBD-II will check the O2 sensor circuits, the air pump, and the EVAP purge.

2. After the two and a half minutes turn off the AC and the rear window defrost, and then accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks for any ignition mis-fires, fuel trim, and canister purge.

3. Hold steady at 55 mph for three minutes. OBD-II monitors the EGR system, the air pump, the O2 sensors and the canister purge.

4. After the three minutes decelerate down to 20 mph without using the brakes or the clutch. OBD-II checks the EGR and the purge functions.

5. Accelerate back up to 55 mph at half throttle. OBD-II checks for mis-fires, fuel trim, and purge functions again.

6. Hold steady at 55 mph for five minutes. OBD-II will monitor catalytic converter efficiency, for any mis-fires, EGR function, fuel trim, O2 sensor operation, and purge functions.

7. Decelerate to a stiop without using the brakes or the clutch. OBD-II makes a final check of the EGR system and the canister purge functions.

probably under the hood,check owners manual or buy a haynes manual.











TIM...............

The solenoid switch acts as the relay for the starting system its located on the starting motor

No this is not a timing chain
P1351 CHEVROLET - Ignition Coil Control Circuit High Voltage

Conditions for Setting P1351:

The voltage on the ignition control circuit exceeds 4.9 volts, and the engine speed is less than 250 RPM.

Bottom line?

Most likely its a bad Ignition Control Module.

My Chevy S10 AC clutch is not engaging... new compressor and dryer and hoses...new relay fuse in engine compartment...could putting more freon in help it engage?

make sure that your ground wires are not rusted off between your radiator support and your fender also the ground strap between your fender and the firewall