20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You can use 10w40 or 10w30 with out a problem...

Could be the flasher module. Try turning on the emergency flashers. If they don't work, the problem is with a plug-in flasher unit that is not all that expensive

Perhaps this link will help. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powertrain_control_module

replace the switch...related to the daylight sensor.

No heat can be because 1. Engine not hot due to thermostat stuck open. 2. Heater fan not running 3. Heater core not flowing water due to a. plugged b. hot water valve not opening

Sounds like a short in that circuit; disconnect the horn and try again, if that does not blow the fuse, the horn needs attention, if it still blows the fuse, the motor for the rear glass is the problem.

It sounds like when you accelerate it downshifts and acts like it is in neutral, when you let off, it shifts back to coast like it is in drive. I would question shift solenoid first. I know this is what 1-2 shift solenoid can act like if you have no low 1 and starts in low 2 or 2nd. There are two solenoids, 1-2nd and 2-3rd. You can drop pan and change them easy.

the plug gap is .045".

SUV- Jimmy, Blazer, Bravada
Pickup truck- s-10 , Sonoma

96 thru current years are same

Hi Anthony, Assuming the machine has had no priors. Water in the gas. Has this signature. A good treatment and a fresh do over with a cleaner may get you going. Keep full in Winter. Problem persists: If the fuel filter has not been changed in several thousands of miles. And lines to and from the fuel pump in the gas tank, look for leaks. Check all your vacuum lines for cracks and connections around the egr valve and the carburetor. Check the choke throttle body linkage. Is something broken? You will have to provide more concise information in order for us out here to symptom solve a direction for you too succeed. Fare. Well.

is the rubber boot cut or torn grease leaking around boot .if so then cv joint is bad and must be replaced

check the coolant temp sensor and the automatic idle module.

If it's the GAUGE fuse than there are a lot of components on this wire. The smarter thing to do before you replaced all that stuff would have been to unplug those items, install a fuse, turn the key on and see if it blows. Obviously at this point we know it would have. Since the rear defrost, DRL, audio alarm, ac relay, 4x4 system and keyless entry module shape this fuse it may be a good idea to to get yourself a good wiring diagram and a good volt meter to track down the shorted component or wire. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

look at the vacuum diagram under the hood and see if there is vacuum reservoir (VRESER) on the diagram. G.M. used a round canister to hold extra vacuum so as to make the controls switch from defrost to vent to heat . They all switched to electronic controls some time around your year model. I used to see this problem all the time and almost everytime it was a leak in the vacuum hose going to that resevoir. I am almost positive yours is electronic though, so you will need to take out the heater/ac control unit. Its behind the buttons on your dash where you push the buttons to control your heat and a.c. Its very possible that it could be stuck where it opens the passage way to divert the air from top to bottom. Put the drivers seat back as far as it will go. (if you dont know about the air bags, dont do anything until you know how to unactivate them.) if you remove the lower cover under the steering wheel, look up above the gas pedal to the right and you can see the lever and spring assembly that opens the door way to divert the air. You can actually push it up or down to change the air flow, but it will go right back when you let go. I think you will have to replace the control to make it work, but if you feel lucky you can take your old control apart and theres a good chance you can fix it yourself. It could just be dirty. I hope this might help but if not send me a message and I will try to help . I got to go to work. good luck

tire may be out of round or have a defect...local dealer can check for you!

Older 4.3 engines have a problem with the distributor gears. Put the engine on top dead center. pull the cap and mark where the rotor sets. Pull the distributor. Look at the gear. if it is worn/not a smooth touch, replace it.

posible spark plugs or wires

There are small wire clips in the fittings recessed in the grooves. Remove the clips and the line will pull out. There are o-rings in the fittings for sealing the lines. If you need a clearer picture of how they work, go to a parts place and they will show you a fitting off the shelf to look at. Reassembly is easy. Just reinstall the clip first, and push the line into the fitting till it clicks.