I have a 93 chevy lumina euro 3.1 liter. it will start and run fine until it warms up. once it gets warm it seems to starve for fuel and dies! no matter how i try to keep it running it will die anyway. if i try to start it right after it dies it fails to do so. if i let it sit for 10-15 minutes it will then start and run like nothing is wrong wiuth it...until it warms up again! can you please help me??!!!
i have a 1993 chevy erro did the same thing after changing alot of parts.
we found that it was the computer chip.. my car has been running great eversince. allso gave it aa new paint job 152,ooo miles and still is dependable..computer chip cost me 165.00 used
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
Firing order for a 3.1 93 chevy lumina please
Posted by sugarmamma... on
1-2-3-4-5-6 The odd cylinders 1-3-5 are on the firewall side, the even cyl. are out to the radiator. Number 1 cylinder is the pulley side.
Posted on Apr 24, 2010
my 1997 lumina will start but only run for about 10 seconds then dies. it will start everytime you try but it wont stay running even if you are giving it gas. it will reave up then die what could it be, sensor, fuel filter or vaccum problem
Posted by purcell... on
It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many.
Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will
do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are
killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners
than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like
that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this
in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything
on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a
better rating to help more people on this. You can also Chat with me now as i have moved up in the myfixya world.
Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the
dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year
life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it
out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did
to fix the problem. For a list of cars effected by this problem. See the NEWROCKIES link on the right side of
their page......... They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and
all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere
from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit
for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the
free affiliate program. Thanks
----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey **** system out of your car all together. Good
info on both sites.
It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
2003-2007 Hummer H2
1994-2003 Grand Prix
1996-2005 Grand AM
1994-1998 Trans Sports
1996-2002 Trans Am
1991-1996 Park Avenue / Ultra
1991-1996 Roadmaster Estate Wagon
1982-1990 Electra (all models)
1991-1993 Delta 88
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser
1995-2005 Monte Carlo
1994-1996 Caprice/Caprice Wagon
1995-1996 Impala SS
1997-2005 Malibu Classic
1985-1996 Fleetwood Brougham
1994-1999 Deville Concours
1997-1999 Deville D'Elegance
1994-2002 ElDorado Touring
Posted on Feb 03, 2011
i have a 1993 chevy lumina,3.1 ltr v6
when the engine is cold it runs fine. when it warms up the engine skips and pops during acceleration , it acts like the timing is off. but only when the engine is warmed up. also it idles fine all the time
Posted by bernec on
Im having the same issue I believe. I have a 94\' Chevy 1500 and when i accelerate it will jerk like the gas has cut out but it wont stall. It just jerks and slows me down. It only seems to do it when going up a hill. I feel like it could be the fuel pump or possibly some intake gaskets?
Posted on Dec 21, 2012
when I am accelerating going uphill my vehicle seems to gasp or chug and I push the accelerator more but still have trouble getting horsepower. Runs fine any other time
Posted by Angie... on
Click the link below to troubleshoot this problem :---Car loses power while
----------Loss of acceleration? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html
-----------Acceleration lag problem? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html
--------------How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?
How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html
----------accelerator pedal sensor? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html
----------stalls and bucks on Acceleration? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html
---------Engine accelerates when brake is applied? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/engine-accelerates-when-brake-is.html
-----------This will help.Thanks.
Posted on Feb 26, 2012
turn signal flasher location 0n 93 chevy lumina
Posted by gary gary on
Passenger side under the dash. Unscrew the screws holding up the plastic panel beneath the dash (from the very bottom).
Posted on Jul 21, 2013
I have a 1993 Chevy Lumina 3.1 v6. The low coolant light stays on even when the coolant is full. I bled the system and changed the thermostat and still doesnt go off. I have also noticed that if i go on trips and try to check the radiator, the coolant doesnt spew out like it should. Do u know what would cause this and what I could do to fix it?
Posted by burrdan on
i had same problem with my lumina it ended up having a blown head gasket. do a compression check and look for a low cylinder on the outside or twq cylinders next to each other that are low.if they are low it indicates a blown gasket. hope this helps
Posted on Sep 19, 2010
how to remove a starter on 1993 Chevy Lumina V6 3.1L automatic transmission?
Posted by hitas17 on
Support the car very securely first of all
Remove the negative cable from the battery
Remove the wires from the starter
Remove the two bolts from the starter going upward to the engine block
Wiggle the starter out
Reverse this proceedure to reinstall
Posted on May 29, 2010
I have a 93 chevy lumina 3.1L. The problem is it will start and run fine until it warms up. After warming up it will either die on it's own (like starving for fuel), and not restart, or if I shut it off it won't restart. I have changed fuel filter, thermostat (needed it) and air filter. I also tested the ICM with a timing light and it seems to be fine. I did the "paper clip" diagnostic test and came up with codes 33 & 35. Any ideas on what to check? I have been told maybe the crank sensor...where is it located? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
change intake gaskets you will find it blown thats why your problem happens when your engine is warm the alum. intake warms up and expands opening the blown gasket
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
how do i locate and replace the thermostat on my 1997 chevy lumina v6 3.1
Posted by heraens365 on
The thermostat is in a difficult position. Follow the upper radiator hose and it leads into the block under the throttle body.
Remove the air filter assembly and you'll c what is the exhaust manifold crossover pipe right in front of the thermostat housing.
NICE, it gives you very little room to remove the 2 bolts to the housing and once u remove those then you'll find you have the thermostat housing loose but because of that darn exhaust manifold crossover pipe u don't have enough room to take the thermostat housing out to change the stinking thermostat.
So from what you can see, you have to remove the heat shield which is cased around the exhaust manifold crossover pipe and if you still can't get enough room to remove the thermostat, (which you amy find out)then you'll have to remove the crossover pipe as well just to change the thermostat.
If you have to remove the crossover pipe then their are 2 bolts on both ends of the pipe leading into the manifolds. But then the tough parts done and once u switch the thermostat over and ATTENTION:remove any old gasket material and put a new gasket in it's place then installation is reverse of removal.
Good luck and hope this helps,
Posted on May 08, 2009
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