20 Most Recent 1993 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Yes, it can be the relay. What I do is unplug the relay and swap it gor yhe horn relay. If this doesn't work, I use a volt/ohmmeter to probe the relay socket. Doing this, I can usually find the problem. With the key on , there should be two terminals in the socket that have battery voltage and one that is grounded. The last terminal goes to the pump and should show low ohms to ground. In your truck, the relay coil is connected to ground and turned on by the ecm with a positive signal. It also seems to depend on the oil pressure switch, so you might want to temporarily bypass the switch with a paper clip in the connector to see if that is keeeping the pump from running.

if the parts department do not have a photo or listing for the part it may be a seal from the bearing that was being replaced they look like shims and many are metal in manufacture they seal the grease in a bearing but if the bearing is failing , they will be knocked out of position and then flap around loose

Like your brakes are locking up?

There are no vaccum hoses unless it is a TH400. The standard 4x4 overdrive trans could have a hose to the vent on top of the trans.

See this YouTube video Removing Rebuilding Installing Distributor 88 95 GMC Chevy truck 5 0 5 7...

The sensor should be mounted at the rear of the engine next to the distributor at block.

There were code keys that you could plug into the diagnostic port to bypass the relay pre 95 that you could get from the dealership for about $1 however have not seen them in years if you go to a dealer parts window and ask them they should be able to print a diagnostic port diagram and tell you which terminals to jump to test the fuel pump circuit

Depends on tires, and gears, unless you have had transmission work done , such as rebuild, or replacement, you can change the shift points by changing the weights and springs on the governor or by having the computer programmed or just changing the entire governor itself

3 inch between muffler and cat and 2.25 elsewhere

Hi Russell: I'd start by looking for a vacuum leak, often associated with the PVC valve. Make sure the PVC valve is not obstructed. Possible dirty air filter. How long since regular Preventive maintenance was done? Cheers

should be a regular break shoe setup, there should be a hole in the backing plate to adjust with a screwdriver but i find it's better to pull the brake drum off and blow out all the dust (just don't breath it) then you can check to make sure the wheel cylinders aren't leaking and all the springs are good. it's also a good idea to pull off the brake adjusters to clean and lubricate them. if you need to replace anything and your not familiar with brake shoe setups then do one side at a time and remember short shoe to the front long shoe to the rear.

Check the exhaust pressure at the tailpipe of your truck while engine is idling in park or, neutral by covering the tailpipe with your hand if you feel very little pressure your catalytic converter has failed (acts like a potato stuffed into the tailpipe)

Hello Matt.
Basic tool needed is a timing light.
Find the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and put a dab of whiteout on it to see it better with the light. Also clean off the timing mark tab on the timing cover so you can see the "0".
0 is where the specification is but I usually go to 3 or 4 as it seems to work a little better there.

Loosen the bolt under the distributor that holds down a clamp that retains it. Snug it enough again so it doesn't turn. I ask you to do this before you warm up the engine because if it is difficult to loosen you don't want to be doing this when the engine is hot.

Warm the engine up now as it may stall when disconnecting the computed timing if you don't.
Hook up the timing light inductor to #1 cylinder ignition wire (on the left front of the engine, on the right if you are looking in from the front) and the power supply to it on the battery.

Find the computed timing disconnect. Disconnect this set timing connector (tan/black wire) located in center of cowl, under battery junction block cover after you get it running. (this will turn on your check engine light. it will go out after you reconnect and shut the engine off)
Aim the light at the timing marks. Rotate the distributor until you get it lined up. tighten the distributor and recheck.
Reconnect the timing connector. There you go.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

Sounds like your rear end may be going out, check your diff.

worn engine ,how many miles on clock ,if high stick a can or two of stp in engine and sell it qiuck

Where can find the fuse box on my 93 chevy pickup its not under the dash... This should help!

Not sure what it takes but I have a small leak in my 1994 Chevrolet and I just put 3 cans of 134 in it. I usually just put some in it and then check inside to see if it is cold. You will find that as you put the Freon in it the ac compressor will run for about 15 to 20 sec at a time and that I believe is what it was set at the factory and the inside temp should be right.

Stop your truck put transmission on neutral change level on your 4by4 on low or hi gear than put transmission on drive there you are ..

It really would depend on wether you know what is in it and what type of vehicle it is on. If it's an object that you can see but can't get pliers or your hand to then I would strongly recommend taking the throttle body off and hold it upside down and play with the linkages until it falls out.

Check along the firewall wiring and look for an in line fuse inside a rubber connector that unplugs from each other and see if the fuse is good. Some models have one on each side of the engine on firewall. Also check your wiring harness for breaks in the line or a bad ground, Hopes this helps Mike