Top 10 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer Questions & Answers

Yes it screws in on right side of tramission and you will need a 7/8 inch deep socket to remove it. You may be able to clean the old one once it is removed. There is a little ball thatgets dirty and may you can get by with cleaning it. Good Luck. Ed

I have done this twice on my 1991 S-10 Blazer 4x4 with automatic transmission and 4.3 v6. This procedure and it works 100%. It is mean to do, but this method does 100% work.
1.) First disconnect the positive battery cable.
2.) Now look at where the positive battery cable is clamped to the frame below the battery and unclip the cable there. This is so you can get slack on the positive battery cable. Now pull the positive batter cable down as far as you can toward the frame. This is done from the top side with the hood open.
3.) Now go unneath and take out the dust cover bolts 15mm and the dust pan will be loose, this is so you can shift the dust pan around. Don't try to completely remove the dust pan, you only need it to be loose.
4.) Now loosen and take out the two starter bolts 14mm and the starter will drop down. Now get a little rough with it and the starter will pass by the loosened dust cover and the starter will fall out. Watch out at this point that stress is not too great on the wires going to the solenoid switch. You don't want to break these two wires from the wight of the starter pulling on them.
5.) Now pull down the main battery wire to get you some wire slack to the starter. you will be able to pull it down maby 3 inches. This is enough to allow you to undo the two wires on the solenoid.
6.) The starter will now completely come out. Keep in mind that you must move the loosened dust cover form side to side to make a clearance so the starter will come out.
7.) Now compare the old starter to the new one that you have gotten so to be sure you have bought the correct starter. I got my starter form an Advance Auto Parts store (no connection to them whatsover) It was a World Parts brand part number P6416S with the solenoid. I think the generic part number would be a 6416S (S means with solenoid switch attached).
8.) Now connect the wires back to the new starter. Making sure they are shorting out against anything.
9.) You will now put the new starter back, ( with the wires connected). To do this you will have you will have to shake and move around the dust cover so it can clear its way back up in there.
10.) My starter came with 5 or 6 shims, I did not use any of them and my starter worked perfectly and meshed fine. I would not add any shims at all unless you absoulty have a reason to have to.
11.) I am 60 years old, and my son and myself did this yesterday 04-18-09 while laying on the ground on our backs. If you could do this over a ditch it would be better, but a flat ground ground will work, but it is a tighter area to work in. My son was able to lift that heavy starter back up in the hole, since I was played out at this time. A lift would be nice, but not needed.
12.) I wanted to add this real life solution that really actually works so that maby someone else can benefit from this. It is not to hard, but can be done. Keep in mind the secret is taking out all of the bolts from the dust pan so it can move around, and getting the positive battery cable loose so you can get some slack with it. Yes don't forget to re fasten back on the battery cable after you have finished.

go to autozone.com, enter your vehicle specs, and follow the prompts for the repair section, then to electrical diagrams..........and its FREE!

It is rather complex but it can be done at home. It will also require special tools. The haynes manuals do cover this repair I believe.

The fuel pump specs are 14 psi. and 20 gallons an hour.

I assume from the year it has high mileage. With mileage comes wear in these engine's bearings allowing oil pressure to drop because of the excess clearance between cam and bearings, also the crank and bearings. When the engine is hot and idling the oil is thinner and goes by the bearings quicker. If you have good oil pressure while driving, I'd leave it alone, maybe use a thicker oil or some lucas additive. My 89 does the same thing sometimes in the summer, but don't remember it doing it this summer. I use Mobil-1 and an AC Delco filter.

This is all I've got.Hope this helps?

the timing spec is 0degrees at idle, also heres adiagram for timing chain, check oil preasure switch connection and wiring to control module.hope this helps.

Check the Chevrolet S10 - Owners Manual (page 314 and next)...



Hope helps (remember rated this).

SOUND LIKE TO ME A POTENTAL FUEL PROBLEM, HAVE YOU TRIED CHANGING THE FUEL FILTER AND FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER? ITS WORTH A TRY, I USUALLY ONLY WORK ON FORDS, WHEN THEY HAVE THIS SYMPTOMS, ITS GENERALLY FUEL RELATED, OR AN IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, TRY SCANNING IT WITH A OBD1 SCAN TOOL, MOST PARTS STORES WILL SCAN IT AT NO CHARGE, BUT IF IT IS FUEL RELATED, NO DTC TROUBLE CODES WILL SHOW. OBD2 DIDNT START TILL 1996 YEAR MODELS. IT MAY BE A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR, I WOULD CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE BOTH KEY ON, ENGINE OFF AND KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING. IF PRESSURE IS TOO LOW, YOU VERY WELL MAY NEED A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR OR EVEN POSSIBLY A NEW FUEL PUMP, BUT CHECK YOUR PRESSURE 1ST BEFORE THROWING MONEY AND PARTS AT IT.