20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

This may only be a suggestion, but I had a similar problem with my 89 s10 with a 4.3l Engine and a 20 gallon tank. After days of diagnoses, I found the fuel pump was going bad. Replaced the pump and bingo, problem solved. This may not be your problem, but it is a start. Might want to check fuel filter. I have seen that to be a problem with other vehicles, especially, 4 cylinder engine and not so much on a Chevy.
Good luck.

Your blazer has central fuel injection (CFI). You said you changed injectors, but your injector in inside the intake manifold, and only has one injector and a "spider" of nylon tubes from the central injector to each intake port. It is common for these spiders to break, causing fuel to leak into the inside of the manifold, and cause problems like you described. The spiders are available as reconditioned and are quite expensive,

Does the fluid on floor resemble the radiator fluid? Quite possibly the age of the vehicle combined with not flushing the cooling system. Including the heater core. Has caused the heater core to leak inside the car. How full is the radiator? The part isn’t usually very much. However it can be a challenging DIY repair. A repair manual for said vehicle should have a trouble shooting section to help you diagnose & repair your vehicle

The mass air flow (MAF) sensor is located in the engine air intake between the throttle body and front of the truck.

I seem to recall that usually was a grounding issue. If you look around the brake light housing you might see rust (on the inside where the screws are or where the housing touches the body. If you're up to it (difficulty depends on the car) you can take the screws and housing out and make sure you brush off any rust/corrosion. Some older cars might have a wire that grounds, you can check if you have one. Just take the screw or bolt out and wirebrush til you see clean metal. There are terminal (CRC makes some) cleaners you can use to augment the wire brush (or sandpaper). Also there are corrosion protection sprays (used for your battery, and the one I have sprays red) you must put it on afterwards as it's non-conductive. The bare metal will corrode again somewhat faster otherwise. While not as likely, it's possible your main ground wire from the battery to the body is corroded, so something else to check. Good luck, and let us know if this helps. P.S. - Depending on where you live, corrosion might be normal (salt in winter or near the ocean), but if not, then check your trunk for leaks as well. If not that, it also could be an issue with the housing seal.

Did you check the main fuses? Sorry, I know how it is when the wife is not happy with her ride.

If it's what I think it is, the question is whether you have had kids in the car... (or annoying friends). I had the same issue with my radio and it turns out the cd player was being used as a coin collector. I would disconnect the battery (following Chevrolet instructions so you don't hose the computer), then take the radio out and shake them loose (gently). (They never got the candy bar, but maybe you made some coin!) Eventually it fried my radio, but I was able to get it repaired (it was new enough then to not just dump it). I had to be the "Fonz" and bang on the dash to get it to work sometimes.

You need to test the fuel pressure at the service port to see what the pressure is in the fuel system. Should have approx. 50-60psi on this system. you either have injectors that are bleeding down terribly (unlikely), a bad fuel pressure regulator (fairly likely), or bad check valve in fuel pump ((also fairly likely). Find a new auto TECHNICIAN, not a joe blow shade-tree guy.

Something wrong with mode selector , vacuum actuator etc.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Vacuum Control System Diagnostic Step Action Yes No DEFINITION: Improper air delivery. • Vacuum applied to the wrong actuator • Vacuum leak 1 Were you sent here from Symptoms or another diagnostic table? YES - Go to Step 2 NO - Go to Symptoms - HVAC Systems - Manual 2 Start the engine. Turn the blower motor fan ON and select an air outlet mode. Does air flow out of the selected HVAC outlet ducts? YES - Go to Step 4 NO - Go to Step 3 3 Did the customer concern mention that the air discharges out the correct ducts at first, but then changes during higher engine RPM? YES - Go to Step 8 NO - Go to Step 4 4 With the engine running, cycle the HVAC controls through all the modes. Does the air come out of the selected outlet ducts? YES - Go to Step 19 NO - Go to Step 5 5 With the engine running, take a vacuum reading at the manifold vacuum port that supplies vacuum to the HVAC vacuum control assembly. Is there engine vacuum? YES - Go to Step 7 NO - Go to Step 6 6 Repair the no vacuum condition. Is the repair complete? YES - Go to Step 19 -- 7 Take a vacuum reading at the vacuum supply line at the HVAC vacuum control assembly. Is the vacuum reading the same as the engine vacuum? YES - Go to Step 12 NO - Go to Step 9 8 Disconnect the vacuum supply line from the HVAC vacuum control assembly. With the vacuum gauge connected to the vacuum supply line, re-start the engine and turn the engine OFF. Does the system lose vacuum after turning OFF the engine? YES - Go to Step 9 NO - Go to Step 12 9 Inspect for leaking or collapsed vacuum lines between the engine manifold vacuum port and the HVAC vacuum control assembly. Are the vacuum lines leaking? YES - Go to Step 10 NO - Go to Step 11 10 Repair or replace the collapsed or leaking vacuum line. Is the repair complete? YES - Go to Step 19 -- 11 Replace the vacuum reservoir tank. Refer to Vacuum Tank Replacement . Is the repair complete? YES - Go to Step 19 -- 12 Using an external vacuum source, apply vacuum to the appropriate vacuum line at the connector to the HVAC vacuum control assembly. Refer to HVAC Schematics . Does the actuator retract? YES - Go to Step 18 NO - Go to Step 13 13 Inspect for leaking or collapsed vacuum lines between the actuator and the connector to the HVAC vacuum control assembly. Are the vacuum lines leaking? YES - Go to Step 10 NO - Go to Step 14 14 Disconnect the vacuum line from the actuator. Apply an external vacuum source to the actuator. Did the actuator retract? YES - Go to Step 15 NO - Go to Step 17 15 With the actuator disconnected, inspect the door for binding. Does the door move freely? YES - Go to Step 17 NO - Go to Step 16 16 Repair the binding door. Refer to the appropriate repair. • Defroster Door Replacement • Mode Door Replacement • Recirculation Door Replacement Is the repair complete? YES - Go to Step 19 -- 17 Replace the vacuum actuator. Refer to the appropriate repair. • Defroster Valve Actuator Replacement • Mode Actuator Replacement • Recirculation Actuator Replacement Is the repair complete? YES - Go to Step 19 -- 18 Replace the HVAC vacuum control assembly. Refer to Heater and Air Conditioning Control Replacement . Is the repair complete? YES - Go to Step 19 -- 19 Cycle the HVAC controls through all modes to verify proper operation. Did you find and correct the condition? YES - System OK NO - Go to Step 2 Do you know how to use a diagnostic flow chart ?

no more like a low duel pressure or dirty injector problem

What is happening is that you have electrical problem have you installed an after market radio? or it can be your ignition switch that has gone faulty and is keeping something on. there needs to be some diagnosing done i suggest find an electrician for this. since it is electrical.

Sound like you got it,, if the injector leaks the fuel in to the cylinder,,, when you whirl the engine its hydro locking the cylinder,,that's what is causing it jerk or kick back,,, it will bend a rod if your no careful

There's about a hundred things that would keep it from running, first but most important, what engine are we talking about, carb or fuel inj.? if fuel inj, mulit port, or throttle body If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

check the fuses, switch and transfer case shift motor. also check the vacuum lines from the trans to the activator that is under the battery If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

You should check the fuses if there ok replace the head light switch.

This dash is a "push-in" dash panel. There was a lot of trouble with the connections on the panel. They get corroded and don't make good contact. Remove the instrument cluster, spray the connections with electro-motive spray. Maybe even some very fine steel wool (with the battery disconnected!) and get the terminals clean. Re-assemble. It should work GREAT. Hope this helps.

Check your oil stick you might be too low on oil. That happens to a lot of vehicles the low oil pressure is the cause.

Suggest test barometric sensor.